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Charlie's Pillar Direct Start
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3 from 71
votes
Routes in The Optimator
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Also Charlie's Pillar (aka Brodie Machine) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Backside Luge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Boriqua T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Cobweb Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dortmunder Gold T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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El Cubano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flying Lizard T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fourth Dementia, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Hayutake [direct start] T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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He Brews T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Herbie's King Cobra T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jive Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jungle Juice T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1 |
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Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Long Island Iced Tea T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lucky Lager T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mudslide T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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No Pueda T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Optimator | 3611, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 38.0758, -109.5948 |
| FA: | Josh Gross |
| Page Views: | 4,746 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Anus Herder on Feb 22, 2016 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
2026 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
The route starts inside of the pillar left of the flake that is 'Charlie's Pillar'. Follow this wide crack and do the first squeeze that gets you to a ledge. Go a bit left and do a final chimney squeeze near the face to reach the bolts. Overall a fun and interesting chimney route sure to get your hog tossed!
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