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Routes in The Optimator

"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Backside Luge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Baroque T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jive Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Island Iced Ted T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,354 total, 10/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a wide dirty crack that the book calls a layback. I thought is was big hands to really big hands then fists and offwidth. If it was cleaner it might be a pretty good route.

Location

Located behind the Anunnaki pillar.

Protection

3, 3.5 and 4 Camalots. There is a two bolt anchor at the top with slings.

Photos

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The Blueprint Part Dank
FEMA Region VIII
  5.9+
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
  5.9+
Let me be the big-handed contrarian here... but I love the hell out of this route. It's position alone warrants three stars, climbing up into the intersection of the Annunaki pillar and the rest of the Optimator Wall is a very humbling experience, giving you a sense of how you fit into the massive scale of the creek (which we don't think about as much as we do the first 100-ish feet of most climbs. And then, you get to the climbing, which is actually pretty great, offering a nice variety of the different fist techniques while climbing in the #3-#4 range. (I have pretty large mitts, so the climbing on here never feels harder than a VERY sustained 5.9 to me, and I rated it as such, apologies if I've thrown off the consensus).

And yes, the geology of the area funnels run-off down through Mudslide during a rain, hence the name, and the reputation for a sandy experience. I have enjoyed the climb in all sort of conditions, and enjoyed even my grimiest ascents. But, if it's been a couple weeks since the last rain, then you will be VERY surprised with the cleanliness you find.

Anyway, I really like this route, and that feeling keeps getting enhanced by the novelty of pretty much everyone else either outright disliking it, or finding it mediocre at best.

But next time you're in the area, give it a shot and decide what you think about it, I really don't think you'll be disappointed. Oct 29, 2016
Eric T.
St. Augustine, Florida
 
Eric T.   St. Augustine, Florida
 
What Claramie said. I climbed this thing last week and wasn't dirty at all. Fun climb and in the shade. Mar 24, 2015
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
This route has cleaned up from some traffic. I finally got on it after years of saying it's too dirty. Mainly a lieback and still kinda dirty but it's worth doing if it's too hot in the sun and Annunaki is slammed. Apr 1, 2013
willeslinger
Golden, Colorado
willeslinger   Golden, Colorado
This route is super rad, don't let the name fool you, it isn't as dirty as it looks from the ground (lotta sand on the left hand wall though, keeps you honest and in the crack because your feet will skid off if you try to lie back). If you've got big hands, there's a phenomenal stretch of wide #3's that you can blast through to a nice shake out ledge. I honestly can't recommend this pitch enough, the location is stellar. You start on the wall of the cave opposite Annunaki and climb up as the cave narrows until you can actually stem off the Annunaki pillar for a good rest before the chains.

Three stars, maybe even four. No joke.

Gear (probably a bit heavy on gear, but the flake you're climbing/protecting sounds kinda hollow, so I sewed it up)

1x #0.75
1x #2
3x #3
1x #3.5
2x #4
1x #4.5 (or new school #5) Nov 19, 2012
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.10
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.10
Dirty, but fun if you enjoy fists. Bring a couple Black Diamond 3.5s if you have them, otherwise you'll be walking your #4s up the second section. Still casual though. Apr 27, 2012
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
a few golds down low then blues for a while. a few 4s will bring you to the true wideness, but no true offwidth is required, look for hero jugs in the crack within the crack up top! A tipped out 4 will protect the final move, but a 5 would feel much better way up top. A decent rest after the bottom choss and a good ledge before the top wideness keep the pump down. Well worth doing to keep in the shade on a hot day! Oct 18, 2009
Braxtron
...
  5.10+
Braxtron   ...
  5.10+
If you like fists & offwidth, you'll love this climb. Gear to 4" will do you just fine. May 5, 2008