Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Yoav Altman, Ilona Barash, Ian Hey
Page Views: 1,445 total · 14/month
Shared By: Crotch Robbins on Mar 27, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route starts the same as Charlie's Pillar but instead of continuing up along the flake to climbers left, chimney the other way out towards Neat, then ascend the wide crack that forms the right side of the pillar up and over to the Charlie's Pillar anchor station. The route is better than it looks, and requires a variety of wide techniques in a short climb. Protection is good with off-the-shelf pro.

Location

Just left of Neat, start as for Charlie's Pillar but take the wide crack on the right side of the pillar up and over to the Charlie's Pillar anchors.

Protection

This is one of those rare IC climbs where a rack of singles will suffice. I used singles from #0.4 to #6 BD C4 with a runner or two to extend a couple of cams. Bolted rap station on the other side of the final pinnacle.

Photos