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Routes in The Optimator

"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Backside Luge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Baroque T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jive Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Island Iced Ted T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Josh Gross
Page Views: 3,850 total · 24/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route starts 20 feet or so to the left of Neat. Begin with an obvious flake and work up and under the fallen pillar, continue working up and left. You will pop out on the left side of the pillar, a few feet of chimney gets you to the ledge. The anchor is two pitons and one bolt. Overall this route is fun and is a departure from the spillters that surround it. Good warm up or down.

Protection

Cams from .5" to 3"

Photos

Wes P
Reno, NV
Wes P   Reno, NV
Thanks for adding the anchor bolts- definitely more reassuring than the crusty old pitons up there. However, some cracks seem to be forming around the upper bolt. It probably should be monitored in the upcoming years and potentially retired. Apr 20, 2014
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
Misled by the guidebook, I took the offwidth start as opposed to the flake start. Does this have its own first ascent? It was good with fun chimneying and a full-on body jam near where the flake and larger crack meet up. Would suggest 5.9+ish for the "direct" start. May 27, 2013
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.8
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.8
A fun, well protected chimney. (And yes, you will chimney some...) The exit is good fun transitioning from the chimney to sandy face holds. Oct 14, 2005
Stefanie Van Wychen
Denver, CO
Stefanie Van Wychen   Denver, CO
We just did this climb in April 05, so they must have just recently added the bolt, which seems a lot more sturdy than the pitons........ May 3, 2005
Bryson Slothower  
  5.8+
Fun mini adventure!

Perhaps a bolt was added but when I did the route in March 05 there were only two drilled piton for an anchor.

Apr 28, 2005

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