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Routes in The Optimator

"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Backside Luge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Baroque T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jive Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Island Iced Ted T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,047 total, 21/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Apr 10, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

AKA: "Heyduke Lives" The companion route to Neat has a scary entry move and a couple of tricky wide hands moves followed by a long stretch of cruiser hands with rests to the anchors. I preserved Bloom's rating though the climb as described here didn't seem any harder than Neat.

Climb the chossy first 15' of Neat to the ledge. Move up three or four feet in the slot, place a cluster of small gear (good blue Aliens on the L, questionable green Alien to the right) with long slings then head right with good, incut hands and no feet until you can swing into Hayduke's crack; this traverse while perhaps 5.8 is the business of the climb -- if you somehow blew it, you would swing hard into Neat's left wall. (The first photo in the Neat description, entitled "the whole route" clearly shows the horizontal feature where one traverses.) Once established in Hayduke's crack, consider future rope drag possibilities when placing gear. The crack gradually narrows from #3 Camalots to .75 Camalots.

There is a desperate direct boulder problem start with a lot of wishful thinking chalk smeared all over it; bring purple Aliens. It is somewhat puzzling to me why there is so much chalk on this variation and virtually none on the regular start.

Location

Start as for Neat

Protection

Blue and green aliens to protect the traverse, a couple of #3 Camalots, six or more #2 Camalots, 1 or two pieces each #1 - .5 Camalots. Two or three long slings.

Photos

What a fun traverse! After doing the route I had the chance to toprope the direct start. I'd say it is a techy v3-4. Apr 27, 2017
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+ PG13
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+ PG13
I found the traverse to be heady, and besides the scare factor, I wouldn't hesitate to call it 5.10+ along with the rest of the route. Be honest, you're practically campusing across a blank slab on thin pin-scars to a desperate foot-jam...

On my way down from Neat, I set an anchor of #3 cams in the lowermost part of the Hayutake splitter in order to top-rope the initial traverse. Felt nice to have this setup. Oct 10, 2016
slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
yeah, you're probably right :). at the time i didn't know the traverse would be easy - for some reason i thought it would be the crux of the route. Apr 1, 2013
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Slim....That sounds WAY to complicated for most of the people on here Mar 29, 2013
slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
a good way to do this route is to tie into both ends of your rope, use the 'left' rope to climb a ways up neat and get some gear. do the traverse and get some gear in 'hay u take' with the 'right' rope, make a few moves to get to a stance, untie the left rope (belayer can pull it down), then keep going with the 'right' rope.

doing it this way, it is well protected. fun route. Mar 28, 2013
Tavis Ricksecker
5.10 PG13
Tavis Ricksecker  
5.10 PG13
Found this a bit easier than Neat. Traverse is more of a mental crux, the moves aren't too bad. Oct 20, 2010
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
The traverse is fun if a little awkward establishing in the crack after it. quite possible to set up a tr above the traverse if you swing out on the way down from neat to avoid the potentially devastating fall if you blew it.

As for the direct start, all the gear you can put in is behind a somewhat loose block (looks solid from the ground but its not awe inspiring when you have your hands on it), and while I doubt the rock would pull if you fell, if it shifted just a bit, all of your tiny cams would pop right out.

all in all an awesome route, well worth getting on one way or the other. May 10, 2010
Will Butler
Boulder, CO
Will Butler   Boulder, CO
the direct start felt more like 11- rather than the 5.10 rating that bloom gave it. This might however have something to do with the PG nature of the opening moves. Mar 10, 2008
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
The direct start isn't too bad, but it is hard to protect. Any place you find to place gear will be in one of the key handholds. Nov 13, 2006
Well Dave, there was a lot of chalk on it when we got there,and I added a bunch more. And still couldn't do it. If my experience is any indication, you can stand at the base of the direct start all day chalking up, but nobody's stopping in the middle of the traverse to dab it up. Eventually I did the usual traverse-in-on-the-thin-crack start, which was a lot easier, despite its appearance.

If you (or anyone) found some purple scarpa slippers up there,please contact me. Apr 13, 2006