Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,178 total · 22/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Apr 10, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


154 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

AKA: "Heyduke Lives" The companion route to Neat has a scary entry move and a couple of tricky wide hands moves followed by a long stretch of cruiser hands with rests to the anchors. I preserved Bloom's rating though the climb as described here didn't seem any harder than Neat.

Climb the chossy first 15' of Neat to the ledge. Move up three or four feet in the slot, place a cluster of small gear (good blue Aliens on the L, questionable green Alien to the right) with long slings then head right with good, incut hands and no feet until you can swing into Hayduke's crack; this traverse while perhaps 5.8 is the business of the climb -- if you somehow blew it, you would swing hard into Neat's left wall. (The first photo in the Neat description, entitled "the whole route" clearly shows the horizontal feature where one traverses.) Once established in Hayduke's crack, consider future rope drag possibilities when placing gear. The crack gradually narrows from #3 Camalots to .75 Camalots.

There is a desperate direct boulder problem start with a lot of wishful thinking chalk smeared all over it; bring purple Aliens. It is somewhat puzzling to me why there is so much chalk on this variation and virtually none on the regular start.

Location

Start as for Neat

Protection

Blue and green aliens to protect the traverse, a couple of #3 Camalots, six or more #2 Camalots, 1 or two pieces each #1 - .5 Camalots. Two or three long slings.

Photos