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Routes in The Optimator

"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Backside Luge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Baroque T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jive Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Island Iced Ted T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: John Fowler, 1995
Page Views: 1,605 total · 12/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Aug 30, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

New school style IC route with a bolt protecting cruxy entry moves. A difficult progression from powerful face/tips through second digit locks sets you up for a tight finger lieback/jam corner and a short pinch to the anchor.

Very cool I thought!

p.s. Despite what the guidebook says or anyone else spews, I think the bolt is important because of the quality/thinness of the crack plus the minimal amount of rope out. Many people fall at that first move. The bolt, as the first piece, protects the integrity of the rock/route...

Protection

Bolt, (I used, in order) 0 Metolius, 1 Met, 2 Met, (3-4x) 3 Met, 2 Met, 1 Met

Location

This is the next route to the left of Optimator. Look for a bolt about 8' off the ground.

Photos

m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
Where at the optimator is this route? Oct 10, 2007
Tortilla
Fakeville, USA
Tortilla   Fakeville, USA
This is on the same ledge system as the optimator. It has a plaque, but it is almost illegible. Nov 23, 2007
Scott Bennett
  5.12-
Scott Bennett  
  5.12-
This is the next route to the left of Optimator. Look for a bolt about 8' off the ground. Mar 19, 2010
  • Historical Note: At the time of the first ascent, 00 TCUs did not exist to protect the initial moves, or the belayer.
Apr 21, 2010

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