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Routes in The Optimator
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Backside Luge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boriqua T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Ditch 'em T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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El Cubano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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He Brews T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Herbie's King Cobra T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Jive Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Jungle Juice T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1 |
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Kitchen Sink T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Long Island Iced Tea T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lucky Lager T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Keith Reynolds |
| Page Views: | 712 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Jikimika Dinglehoffer on Oct 28, 2014 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect
Details
No toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas open September 1, 2020
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas in effect March 1, 2020- September 1, 2020 for full details visit: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Contact Jason Byrd at the BLM with questions: jbyrd@blm.gov
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas open September 1, 2020
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas in effect March 1, 2020- September 1, 2020 for full details visit: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Contact Jason Byrd at the BLM with questions: jbyrd@blm.gov
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
The thin crack to the right of Mudslide, behind the Annunaki pillar. This route will rarely be clean due to runoff, but it climbs well. First, head up blocky rock to a horizontal. From here, the crack is gone. Climb a thin 5.10- R face, taking care to blow dirt off the holds. In a shallow pod one can dig in a couple lobes of very small cams (0c3), but it is unlikely that they would hold a fall. Get to a stance and place tips sized gear.
Fire 40 feet of tips to fingers until you can stem across to the Annunaki pillar. Chimmney beside an intermittent crack to the top, finishing at a window.
Fire 40 feet of tips to fingers until you can stem across to the Annunaki pillar. Chimmney beside an intermittent crack to the top, finishing at a window.
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