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Routes in The Optimator

"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Backside Luge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Baroque T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jive Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Island Iced Ted T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Keith Reynolds
Page Views: 301 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jikimika Dinglehoffer on Oct 28, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The thin crack to the right of Mudslide, behind the Annunaki pillar. This route will never be clean due to runoff, but it climbs well. First, head up blocky rock to a horizontal. From here, the crack is gone. Climb a thin 5.10- R face, taking care to blow dirt off the holds. In a shallow pod one can dig in a couple lobes of very small cams (0c3), but it is unlikely that they would hold a fall. Get to a stance and place tips sized gear.
Fire 40 feet of tips to fingers until you can stem across to the Annunaki pillar. Chimmney beside an intermittent crack to the top, finishing at a window.

Location

To the right of Mudslide behind the Annunaki Pillar.

Protection

00, 0 C3, 6-8 cams in the tips size (0.3), 6 cams in the fingers size (0.4), 2 BD .5, 2 .75, 1 #1, 1 #2. 1 #3 for the horizontal at the bottom.

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Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Poor Annunaki gets gang-banged all day, every day while this gem of a route sits in neglect 15' away. When I did it there was no sand in the crack at all (and no chalk for that matter). This thing is much more moderate than it might appear with really only one .12- move of tips layback, which is above a stance and bomber gear. After the initial 5.9 runout on good holds it protects like a dream so don't be deterred and give this thing a go! Oct 31, 2017