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Routes in The Optimator
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Backside Luge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Baroque T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Jive Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Kitchen Sink T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Long Island Iced Ted T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Optimator T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
| FA: | Keith Reynolds |
| Page Views: | 495 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jikimika Dinglehoffer on Oct 28, 2014 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas
Details
Please be aware of climbing routes that have nesting raptors. This News Release requests climbers' cooperation in protecting eagles, peregrine falcons, and other migratory birds who use the Indian Creek area to raise their young. Between March 1st and August 31st each year, the BLM asks climbers to avoid climbing these walls until they have been cleared by agency biologists: The Wall, Far Side, Second Meat Wall, Disappointment Cliff, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. Two of these walls are on partially or wholly on lands managed by SITLA, who is working cooperatively with BLM to protect raptors. The BLM and SITLA will survey walls and generally in May can release any routes that don't have active nests. The walls with active nests should be avoided until the young have fledged. Eagles and falcons mate for life and return to the same nest sites year after year to raise their young, your cooperation is vital to their survival.
The revised map for Raptor Avoidance:
(The map previously posted was requested by Jason Byrd to be deleted due to errors.)
The news release: blm.gov/press-release/annou….
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
The revised map for Raptor Avoidance:
(The map previously posted was requested by Jason Byrd to be deleted due to errors.)
The news release: blm.gov/press-release/annou….
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
The thin crack to the right of Mudslide, behind the Annunaki pillar. This route will never be clean due to runoff, but it climbs well. First, head up blocky rock to a horizontal. From here, the crack is gone. Climb a thin 5.10- R face, taking care to blow dirt off the holds. In a shallow pod one can dig in a couple lobes of very small cams (0c3), but it is unlikely that they would hold a fall. Get to a stance and place tips sized gear.
Fire 40 feet of tips to fingers until you can stem across to the Annunaki pillar. Chimmney beside an intermittent crack to the top, finishing at a window.
Fire 40 feet of tips to fingers until you can stem across to the Annunaki pillar. Chimmney beside an intermittent crack to the top, finishing at a window.
Photos
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Flagstaff, AZ