Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,465 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 28, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This climb not apparently described in the Bloom book, nor is it named or rated. It is a very large left-facing corner with some wide climbing near the ground. for much of it's length a crack in the right wall runs within stemming distance of the corner. Up top it goes to thin fingers to surmount the sandy ledge with a fixed anchor.To the right of this climb, on the wall's main face, there are a pair of twin cracks with thin hands on the left and chossy, intermittent tips and seams on the right that reach a anchor at 70' or so up. These may help you locate the climb in question.

No matter what your strength or weakness is, you are bound to find a little of it on this climb. It is safe, but exciting. A member of our group, a 5.10 leader cast off on it, concluding after a minor epic (safe, but scary) that it "was the dumbest thing (he has) ever done." That is to say, to get on that climb at his level. No less, after a few tries to pull up more gear, a few hangs and a marathon belay, he arrived safely up top and lowered off no worse for the wear.This is a decent climb and might deserve 2 stars. It's subjective and this cliff offers stiff competition for the stars. There are many better climbs here.

Protection

Various, a heavy rack from .33" to #4 camalot" with one #5 camalot for security in a wide spot if desired.The crux up high will be done on thin gear, so a double-run of aliens or eq. up there would be good to have. Plan accordingly.  You need a 70M rope to lower off.

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