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Gunning For Gonzo
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2.6 from 10
votes
Routes in The Optimator
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Also Charlie's Pillar (aka Brodie Machine) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Backside Luge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Boriqua T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Cobweb Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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El Cubano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flying Lizard T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fourth Dementia, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Hayutake [direct start] T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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He Brews T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Herbie's King Cobra T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jive Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jungle Juice T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1 |
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Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Long Island Iced Tea T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lucky Lager T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mudslide T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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No Pueda T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Optimator | 3611, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 38.0758, -109.5948 |
| FA: | Micah Dash & David Bloom, 2002 |
| Page Views: | 2,356 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 28, 2005 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This climb not apparently described in the Bloom book, nor is it named or rated. It is a very large left-facing corner with some wide climbing near the ground. for much of it's length a crack in the right wall runs within stemming distance of the corner. Up top it goes to thin fingers to surmount the sandy ledge with a fixed anchor.To the right of this climb, on the wall's main face, there are a pair of twin cracks with thin hands on the left and chossy, intermittent tips and seams on the right that reach a anchor at 70' or so up. These may help you locate the climb in question.
No matter what your strength or weakness is, you are bound to find a little of it on this climb. It is safe, but exciting. A member of our group, a 5.10 leader cast off on it, concluding after a minor epic (safe, but scary) that it "was the dumbest thing (he has) ever done." That is to say, to get on that climb at his level. No less, after a few tries to pull up more gear, a few hangs and a marathon belay, he arrived safely up top and lowered off no worse for the wear.This is a decent climb and might deserve 2 stars. It's subjective and this cliff offers stiff competition for the stars. There are many better climbs here.
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