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Routes in The Optimator

"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Backside Luge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Baroque T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jive Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Island Iced Ted T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Charlotte Fox and partner
Page Views: 4,579 total, 30/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 23, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This spectacular route is located pretty much where the trail meets the wall on the Optimator. It is just right of a short tower and shares a start with Hayduke Lives aka. Hayutake. It follows a huge right facing corner system for 100 ft. to a 3 bolt anchor with slings. There is a plaque.

Start out with a low angled shallow hand and finger crack to a large horizontal flake, a lieback move gets you to a ledge at about 20 ft. (.75 to #1 camalot)From the ledge climb 15 ft. of stem box with tips crack on either side. (small TCUs) Above the stem box climb a tight hands corner up to a small roof for about 25 ft. (#0.75 to #1 Camalot) Above the roof climb perfect hands in a corner for 30 ft. (mostly #2 Camalots, 1 #3) Just below the anchor pull the crux roof/bulge. (#2 Camalot)

Protection

Small TCUs up to #3 Camalot, extra #2 and #3s.
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10-
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10-
This is a very high-quality pitch with simple protection, not to mention very soft for the grade. The upper half features sustained 5.9 hands capped by a beautifully sculpted roof that pulls easily on high jams. For those with BD camalots, leave the 3's behind (seriously, they won't fit) and instead take as many 2's as you've got (four or five oughta be plenty). Oct 10, 2016
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
So much fun! The thin section down low was a breeze, lots of different ways to climb it. Greg's comment about the Saggy #2's is mainly true in the top of the crack, right before the roof. If you only have Camalots I'd recommend running it out a bit here and protecting at the roof, which I felt was tighter than the top section prior to the roof. Either rock the sagtastic #2's, run it out, or get some friends or metolius cams. Personally I placed two saggy Camalots and a tight #3 (that almost got stuck). Apr 1, 2015
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.10
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.10
#3 friends are the best fit for this corner instead of baggy 2 camalots or tight 3 camalot. Apr 23, 2012
chosspector
San Juans, CO
 
chosspector   San Juans, CO
 
FA Casey Yorkunas Mar 19, 2012
Ty Gittins
bozeman
 
Ty Gittins   bozeman
 
would have to agree...better than 2.5 stars...exciting roof near the chains Jan 30, 2011
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
How does this thing only get 2.5 stars!?!? Get past the initial sandy ramp and into a stellar corner. Hands for the most part. Great route! Oct 16, 2009
Probably one of the BEST 5.10's that I have ever done. High quality rock, excellent gear placements...And fun route. Highly recommend it as a warm up route for other Optimator Wall routes. May 19, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
Great route on a great wall. My gear: blue and yellow aliens for the start, 2x0.75 Camalots, 2x#1 Camalots, 4x#2 Camalots, and 4x#3 Camalots. The blue Camalots are a little tight midway through the final crack. The roof pinches back down to #2 Camalot size right before the chains. Oct 14, 2005