Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Casey Yorkunas, Laura Schmonsees, Ann Mellick, May 1996
Page Views: 5,229 total · 31/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 23, 2005 with updates from Laura schmonsees
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This spectacular route is located pretty much where the trail meets the wall on the Optimator. It is just right of a short tower and shares a start with Hayduke Lives aka. Hayutake. It follows a huge right facing corner system for 100 ft. to a 3 bolt anchor with slings. There is a plaque.

Start out with a low angled shallow hand and finger crack to a large horizontal flake, a lieback move gets you to a ledge at about 20 ft. (.75 to #1 camalot)From the ledge climb 15 ft. of stem box with tips crack on either side. (small TCUs) Above the stem box climb a tight hands corner up to a small roof for about 25 ft. (#0.75 to #1 Camalot) Above the roof climb perfect hands in a corner for 30 ft. (mostly #2 Camalots, 1 #3) Just below the anchor pull the crux roof/bulge. (#2 Camalot)


Small TCUs up to #3 Camalot, extra #2 and #3s.
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Great route on a great wall. My gear: blue and yellow aliens for the start, 2x0.75 Camalots, 2x#1 Camalots, 4x#2 Camalots, and 4x#3 Camalots. The blue Camalots are a little tight midway through the final crack. The roof pinches back down to #2 Camalot size right before the chains. Oct 14, 2005
Probably one of the BEST 5.10's that I have ever done. High quality rock, excellent gear placements...And fun route. Highly recommend it as a warm up route for other Optimator Wall routes. May 19, 2008
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
How does this thing only get 2.5 stars!?!? Get past the initial sandy ramp and into a stellar corner. Hands for the most part. Great route! Oct 16, 2009
Ty Gittins
Ty Gittins   bozeman
would have to agree...better than 2.5 stars...exciting roof near the chains Jan 30, 2011
San Juans, CO
chosspector   San Juans, CO
FA Casey Yorkunas Mar 19, 2012
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
#3 friends are the best fit for this corner instead of baggy 2 camalots or tight 3 camalot. Apr 23, 2012
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
So much fun! The thin section down low was a breeze, lots of different ways to climb it. Greg's comment about the Saggy #2's is mainly true in the top of the crack, right before the roof. If you only have Camalots I'd recommend running it out a bit here and protecting at the roof, which I felt was tighter than the top section prior to the roof. Either rock the sagtastic #2's, run it out, or get some friends or metolius cams. Personally I placed two saggy Camalots and a tight #3 (that almost got stuck). Apr 1, 2015
Derek Field
Derek Field   California
This is a very high-quality pitch with simple protection, not to mention very soft for the grade. The upper half features sustained 5.9 hands capped by a beautifully sculpted roof that pulls easily on high jams. For those with BD camalots, leave the 3's behind (seriously, they won't fit) and instead take as many 2's as you've got (four or five oughta be plenty). Oct 10, 2016
Soft for the grade only if you have man hands. Sustained tipped out #2s are unfriendly for smaller hands and was more than I bargained for as my warmup. Apr 2, 2018