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Hayutake [direct start]
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.4 from 34
votes
Routes in The Optimator
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Also Charlie's Pillar (aka Brodie Machine) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Backside Luge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Boriqua T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Cobweb Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dortmunder Gold T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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El Cubano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flying Lizard T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fourth Dementia, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Hayutake [direct start] T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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He Brews T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Herbie's King Cobra T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jive Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jungle Juice T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1 |
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Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Long Island Iced Tea T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lucky Lager T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mudslide T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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No Pueda T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Optimator | 3611, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 38.0758, -109.5948 |
| FA: | Steve Quinlan |
| Page Views: | 727 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Thorpe on May 9, 2022 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Disambiguation: For the more popular shared start with Neat see Hayutake 5.10+.
For the direct start: begin on the wide, sloped crack/ramp to the right of Neat until you gain a stance on a fracture in the rock. You can protect the wider crack with some large gear, but watch the drag if you choose to do so.
From there, place your favorite small pieces to protect a difficult corner. Be mindful of where you place your gear in relation to where you will want your fingers to be (I worked the gear out on TR before my redpoint attempt for this reason). The gear is small but good.
I imagine that if you are a person of great reach you would be able to place a nice big piece under the roof from a good stance, but if you are not, a couple of hard moves on small gear lead to a roof pull. Place that good big gear when you can.
After pulling the roof, you join up with the standard route. From there, enjoy a beautiful splitter for days.
Note: The Kelley book (Creek Freak) says that the direct start is the "original route" and lists the first ascent as Steve Quinlan. It does not list a grade. I do not have any contact with Kelley or Quinlan. The grade I listed is based on my experience on routes of similar character and a note in the Bloom book (Indian Creek: A Climbing Guide) that says that the direct start is "harder climbing" than the shared start. The listed grade for the shared start is 5.10+ in both books. If the climbing is "harder," then I thought an 11- grade seemed appropriate and lines up with more bouldery/sportier routes in other areas. However, if anyone has any more historical information about this route or if the consensus changes the grade, I'm happy to alter the entry. I've only added this alternate entry due to the cruxes of the two routes being different, with the corner/roof being the obvious crux of the direct start.
This variation is a hell of a lot of fun. Enjoy.
Protection
I placed a black Totem, a .2 BD Z4, and a green C3 to protect the corner, but your favorite small gear in that range will work (there's a spot where I think a stopper will work as your second or third piece). After that, I recommend three #3s, six or so #2s, one or two #1-#.5, and a couple of single slings to mitigate drag. 70m rope.
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