Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Casey Yorkunas, May 1996
Page Views: 2,793 total · 17/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 28, 2005 with updates from Laura schmonsees
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


94 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This climb not apparently described in the book, nor is it named or rated. It is on the on the wall's main face, 1/2 way between "NEAT" and the "Anunnaki Pillar." You will see a pair of twin cracks with thin hands on the left and chossy, intermittent tips and seams on the right that reach a anchor at 70' or so up. Climbing the leftmost of these with the occasional aid of the right one is probably 5.10. Climbing it with the 'eliminate' of the crack on the right might provide 5.10+ challenge. The route used to finish at a single bolt and 2-fixed-stopper anchor, but that was updated by the addition of a bolt.

Protection

Various, thin hands to hands.

Photos

new bolt(3/8" SS triplex)added to existing single bolt anchor, and fixed nuts removed.

Fun route. Stiff start, but good hands higher, and bomber finger locks on the steep part. The right crack helps with the feet (ie. stemming). Nov 8, 2005
m-earle
USA
 
m-earle   USA
 
This is a fun route, i give it 3 stars. a good warm up if the popular routes are occupied Feb 21, 2007
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
I believe this route is in the Bloom book and is listed as climb #13, Unknown 5.11. The whole route climbs 120 feet to an upper anchor. I really like the lower part of this route that climbs to the first anchor. Good stuff. Mar 17, 2008
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
The new guide book calls this route Cassey's Route, but still lacks to inform you of the midway anchor. This is a great thin hands splitter to the midway anchor, not to be missed... doesnt really look like anyone ever goes past the midway anchor. Oct 17, 2009
303scott
5.10+
303scott  
5.10+
Good route. I thought the bulge was solid 10+. Does anyone know what the gear is like to the second anchor? It looked a bit thin/absent... Nov 29, 2012
Fun route, no move is any easier than anything on Scarface IMHO. Pulling the bulge isn't too bad it's really the sand that makes it a pain. There's also a free Green C4 that I (the rope) walked way way (like 16 inches) into the crack. Sep 2, 2013
matthew
Gunnison, Colorado
matthew   Gunnison, Colorado
FA joe Melley, the original one bolt “anchor” was just to protect that part of the route. Anchors are higher. Jul 1, 2018