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Routes in The Optimator

"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Backside Luge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Baroque T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jive Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Island Iced Ted T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: T. Bubb, 2005: TR only
Page Views: 1,257 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 28, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This climb not apparently described in the book, nor is it named or rated. It is on the on the wall's main face, 1/2 way between "NEAT" and the "Anunnaki Pillar." You will see a pair of twin cracks with thin hands on the left and chossy, intermittent tips and seams on the right that reach a anchor at 70' or so up. Climbing the right-most crack to reach a spot where the cracks converge will pass the technical crux. Be wary as the route was cleaned by hand on the FA, but not cleaned as thoroughly as may be possible on rap. Some flakes, holds and edges still flex and will likely yield to a hard pull. The gear placements are also not clean. The route needs a few more runs to be as solid as it will ever be, and even then will be a climb to be wary of leading, although the moves are really good. Imagine perplexing and sequential eldo-like cruxes with desert stone. A nice break from the treadmill, and practically a 'trad' face-climb in places. The singular crack to the right can be continued as an 'eliminate' problem intentionally avoiding the crack on the left as they come closer up top to add a second 5.11 crux. Lower from a single bolt and 2-fixed-stopper anchor. A cam can be used to back this up for TR'ing if desired.

Protection

TR. A lead is probably possible now that it was cleaned (while I climbed it). A brief inspection would probable lead the saner of us to forgo this until the route is more carefully dusted and cleaned. The rating would be at least 'S' even after the most noble cleaning efforts were complete unless you like small RP's in shallow placements at the creek. I advise the aspiring leader to check out the route's moves, holds, and placements before casting off into the unknown. The hospital was too far away for my taste. If you lead it, take a set of nuts, lowe-balls, and a set of cams from *tiny* to thin-hands.

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AL .
UT
  5.11+ R
AL .   UT
  5.11+ R
Gave this thing a lead after 1 TR burn. Interesting "face" climbing with decent but spaced out gear down low. I found cams did the trick, although a couple of small offset DMM nuts would give some peace of mind, and the possibility of placing gear ahead of you rather than behind. RP's not really necessary. It would be a hardcore onsight by creek standards. Felt like 11 on TR, 11+ on lead. Oct 16, 2015

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