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Routes in The Optimator

"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Backside Luge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Baroque T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jive Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Island Iced Ted T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Sibylle Hechtel and Keith Reynolds
Page Views: 3,586 total, 23/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on May 2, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is left of the large fallen pillar. The route follows a left leaning crack system. The crack begins small and gets bigger as you climb higher. Because the route leans, you need a 60-meter rope to get to the ground. A worth while route. There is a two-bolt anchor with some webbing.

Protection

variety of cams (camalots .3 - # 3)
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Fun route and great, easy warm-up. Crux is the twin yellow alien cracks to get started then it's super cruiser after that. #2s with plenty of rest feet all the way up. Oct 16, 2009
karcbr  
The lady pillar was a great warm up route for this area, I origionally climbed this route with sibylle hechtel, we were doing a first ascent, perhaps 5.9, a beautiful lady deserves a beautiful climb. I'm sure we were the first ones to put in the anchors. I don't remember seeing Josh that day. Keith Reynolds Jun 2, 2008
Braxtron
...
  5.10-
Braxtron   ...
  5.10-
Rad climb!! If you're looking to push your lead climbing limit, this one's a good candidate for you. It's not sustained and the gear is good and plentiful. May 5, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10-
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10-
Interesting route. Seemed soft for the grade (at least by IC standards). Red and yellow aliens for the start (probably the technical crux), #0.75 Camalot, #1 Camalot, 2x#2 Camalots, 2x3 Camalots, and one #3.5 Camalot (not really neccessary) right before the chains. The top crack had lots of feet and rests. Oct 14, 2005
Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
I tried to put a pic showing the route, but it messed up twice, sorry... May 4, 2005