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Routes in The Optimator

"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Backside Luge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Baroque T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jive Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Island Iced Ted T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,088 total, 13/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Apr 4, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Kitchen Sink is a perfect name for this route as you'll encounter everything from tips to offwidth by the time you get to the anchor. Start by stemming up two parallel offset cracks with good finger locks and gear in the left crack. Take advantage of a rest ledge to the right if you want and then continue up a fist crack behind a flake. There is also a tips crack that leads straight up from the ledge and merges with the fist crack after about 10' but it looked harder.

A short easy offwidth section leads to a final tight right facing corner. A blue alien size crack and occational openings in the corner provide adequate places for pro but this might be the mental crux for some.

Location

This route is just left of Charlie's Pillar and starts up parallel offset cracks, the left is big enough for fingers and the right is more of a seam.

Protection

Bring two each from Blue Aliens to #4 Camalots with an extra .4 Camalot. There are two bolts at the anchor but the upper bolt could use a 1' length of chain.

Photos

MaryH.
Carbondale, CO
MaryH.   Carbondale, CO
Awesome route, but I would recommend triples of .3-.5 Camelot, 2 little purple metolius, 1 #2 & #3 cam, & maybe a #4 cam. The small gear is easier to place than the #4's. I would say that anything bigger than a #3 cam is optional if you carry the little gear. Physical route, & fun Oct 15, 2014
slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
superb route and perfectly named, as mentioned above. steven's rack suggestion looks pretty bold. i would recommend a bunch of pieces in the thin fingers to fingers sizes. it seems like there is always a finger crack available. pretty long route that is fairly strenuous, despite having a lot of rests. Apr 1, 2013
D-Storm
 
D-Storm  
 
I remember the finish being interesting. Oct 17, 2012