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5.12- PG13, Trad, 100 ft,  Avg: 2.9 from 11 votes
FA: Keith Reynolds
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Optimator
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The thin crack to the right of Mudslide, behind the Annunaki pillar. This route will never be clean due to runoff, but it climbs well. First, head up blocky rock to a horizontal. From here, the crack is gone. Climb a thin 5.10- R face, taking care to blow dirt off the holds. In a shallow pod one can dig in a couple lobes of very small cams (0c3), but it is unlikely that they would hold a fall. Get to a stance and place tips sized gear.
Fire 40 feet of tips to fingers until you can stem across to the Annunaki pillar. Chimmney beside an intermittent crack to the top, finishing at a window.

Location

To the right of Mudslide behind the Annunaki Pillar.

Protection

00, 0 C3, 6-8 cams in the tips size (0.3), 6 cams in the fingers size (0.4), 2 BD .5, 2 .75, 1 #1, 1 #2. 1 #3 for the horizontal at the bottom.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Poor Annunaki gets gang-banged all day, every day while this gem of a route sits in neglect 15' away. When I did it there was no sand in the crack at all (and no chalk for that matter). This thing is much more moderate than it might appear with really only one .12- move of tips layback, which is above a stance and bomber gear. After the initial 5.9 runout on good holds it protects like a dream so don't be deterred and give this thing a go! Oct 31, 2017