Avg: 3.9 from 320 votes
|Type:||Trad, Grade III|
|FA:||Ed Webster, Pete Williams 1979|
|Page Views:||49,352 total · 221/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Mar 28, 2002 with 1 Suggestions|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas in effect March 1, 2020 for full details visit: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Beginning March 1-late July, the public will be asked to avoid climbing or hiking in areas where birds are known to nest. The climbing areas that are historically known to have nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as:
June 11, 2020 avoidance update:
The Wall, Reservoir Wall, Cat Wall, and the multiple Meat Walls.
BLM biologists will continue monitoring efforts throughout the 2020 season, and the BLM will notify the public once young birds have fledged. Trailhead notices and maps will be updated when the avoidance areas are lifted. The BLM expects the avoidance areas to be lifted prior to the beginning of the fall climbing season.
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Contact Jason Byrd at the BLM with questions: firstname.lastname@example.org
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
The route can be done in 3 or 4 pitches--many different belays are possible. The various guidebooks (with the exception of Rock Climbing Utah) all have strangely inaccurate route descriptions.
P1-start on the right side of the east face in the beautiful splitter crack (fingers to chimney). The left crack is 5.11+ and also very pretty. I thought the real crux of this pitch was not at the beginning (rated 5.11a), but the overhanging, somewhat difficult to protect moves into the awkward leaning slot (rated variously 5.9 or 5.10) above. There is a questionable small wire left of the slot if you don't have a big cam.
One can belay directly above the slot (big cam, chockstone) or traverse left at 5.9+ and belay in a V-slot with mediocre rock but a decent stance.
P2-two options-thin 5.11 fingers widening to splitter off-hands over a roof on the right, or 5.9 flared chimney widening to off-fists over a roof on the left. I took the left, which is rated 5.10, although fairly burly by Creek 5.10 standards. You can also start up the left slot and traverse right to the splitter off-hands which apparently is the easiest way to do the pitch.
Belay above the roof if desired (medium-large friends and/or more fixed delectables), or continue up and left (5.10-) in the acute corner to a spectacular belay just under the bombay chimney/roof.
P3-An unnerving spectacle: turn the huge roof (amazingly, only 5.10) into good hand jams; follow the cracks through progressively worse rock to the base of the final chimney. Belay here (small cams needed) or continue into the final squeeze chimney to the summit (rope drag shouldn't be an issue here as you'll be inching your way up anyway). Enjoy one of the best views of your life, then rappel.
The final squeeze chimney is secure if you can slip deep inside. I've heard that a number four big bro would fit here. Big people will find it easier to climb as an off-width on the outside, but that would be a damn scary way to lead it! There used to be a bolt but it has been pulled.
Plan on setting your own belay anchors or at least backing up the dubious fixed anchors that do exist. Bring lots of long runners.