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Broken Tooth Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Broken Tooth

L › R R › L A › Z

	Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Maas Diente T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Mondo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Novacaine T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	OW Dude T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Rhythm Method T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Ukrainian Root Canal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Where The Spirit Meets The Bone T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	5,772 ft	1,759 m
GPS:	38.10072, -109.56618 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	71,262 total · 263/month
Shared By:	William McGehee on Oct 6, 2003
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Details

2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…

Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…

For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.

Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.

Getting There

Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.

Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Broken Tooth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 76 ● Dental Floss Tycoon Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 82 ● Blue Sky Mining Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 56 ● Midnight Oil Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 106 ● The Incisor Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 235 ● unnamed classic hand crack aka G… Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 23 ● Tooth Fairy Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 335 ● Rock Lobster Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 138 ● Polygrip Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 52 ● Heat Searcher Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 29 ● Dentist Chair Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 26 ● Mondo Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 105 ● Broken Tooth Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 21 ● Rhythm Method Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 88 ● Inflictor Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b 48 ● Unbelievable Trad