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Routes in Broken Tooth

Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mondo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rhythm Method T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.

Getting There

Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.

Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Broken Tooth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 45
Dental Floss Tycoon
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 56
Blue Sky Mining
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 39
Midnight Oil
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 68
The Incisor
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 153
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold C…
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Tooth Fairy
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 218
Rock Lobster
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 92
Polygrip
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 34
Heat Searcher
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 16
Dentist Chair
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 23
Mondo
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 68
Broken Tooth
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
Rhythm Method
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 62
Inflictor
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 36
Unbelievable
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dental Floss Tycoon
 45
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Blue Sky Mining
 56
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Midnight Oil
 39
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
The Incisor
 68
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
unnamed classic hand crack…
 153
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Tooth Fairy
 18
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Rock Lobster
 218
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Polygrip
 92
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Heat Searcher
 34
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Dentist Chair
 16
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Mondo
 23
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Broken Tooth
 68
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Rhythm Method
 15
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Inflictor
 62
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Unbelievable
 36
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
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Photos

Does anyone know what the long steep zig zaging splitter not far (like 30') to the right of Dental Floss Tycon is? It's on the pillar, west facing and looks sweet. And it has an anchor... Jun 28, 2015
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Shrooms with Heffner? Jun 29, 2015
No, but good guess. Aug 3, 2015
Darbley Sterway   Aspen
Anybody know what time this cliff gets sun/shade this time of year? 2 days ago

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