Elevation: 5,772 ft
GPS: 38.101, -109.566 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 50,099 total · 241/month
Shared By: William McGehee on Oct 6, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.

Getting There

Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.

Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Broken Tooth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 54
Dental Floss Tycoon
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 63
Blue Sky Mining
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 47
Midnight Oil
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 80
The Incisor
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 185
unnamed classic hand crack aka G…
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Tooth Fairy
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 254
Rock Lobster
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 105
Polygrip
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 40
Heat Searcher
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 18
Dentist Chair
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 24
Mondo
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 80
Broken Tooth
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Rhythm Method
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 70
Inflictor
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 38
Unbelievable
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dental Floss Tycoon
 54
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Blue Sky Mining
 63
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Midnight Oil
 47
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
The Incisor
 80
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
unnamed classic hand crack…
 185
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Tooth Fairy
 20
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Rock Lobster
 254
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Polygrip
 105
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Heat Searcher
 40
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Dentist Chair
 18
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Mondo
 24
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Broken Tooth
 80
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Rhythm Method
 18
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Inflictor
 70
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Unbelievable
 38
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
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