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Elevation: 5,772 ft 1,759 m
GPS: 38.10072, -109.56618
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 71,038 total · 273/month
Shared By: William McGehee on Oct 6, 2003
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.

Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.

34 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Broken Tooth Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Broken Tooth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 70
Dental Floss Tycoon
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 80
Blue Sky Mining
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 53
Midnight Oil
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 227
unnamed classic hand crack aka G…
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 104
The Incisor
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 22
Tooth Fairy
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 324
Rock Lobster
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 134
Polygrip
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 51
Heat Searcher
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 28
Dentist Chair
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
Mondo
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 101
Broken Tooth
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Rhythm Method
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 87
Inflictor
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 47
Unbelievable
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dental Floss Tycoon
 70
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Blue Sky Mining
 80
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Midnight Oil
 53
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
unnamed classic hand crack…
 227
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
The Incisor
 104
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Tooth Fairy
 22
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Rock Lobster
 324
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Polygrip
 134
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Heat Searcher
 51
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Dentist Chair
 28
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Mondo
 26
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Broken Tooth
 101
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Rhythm Method
 21
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Inflictor
 87
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Unbelievable
 47
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Broken Tooth »

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