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Broken Tooth

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.

Getting There

Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.

Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
Mondo
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 1
Chemotherapy
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 9
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in T…
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 52
Midnight Oil
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 78
Blue Sky Mining
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
Maas Diente
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 217
unnamed classic hand crack aka G…
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 2
Phantom Pinnacle
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
Numbing the Wild
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 1
OW Dude
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 63
Dental Floss Tycoon
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 3
Brown Baby Teeth
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 101
The Incisor
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 49
Heat Searcher
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 304
Rock Lobster
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 81
Inflictor
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 128
Polygrip
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Rhythm Method
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 4
Novacaine
Trad
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 2
Mushrooms With Hefner
Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 2
Terminal Fistula
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 2
Root Canal
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 24
Gingivitis
Trad 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 96
Broken Tooth
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 26
Dentist Chair
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 46
Unbelievable
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 1
Insoluble
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
Where The Spirit Meets The Bone
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Dynamic Dentistry
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 22
Tooth Fairy
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
Biggie Smiles
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 1
Snaggle Tooth
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 2
Tooth Pac
Trad
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 2
Low Fang
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mondo
 26
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Chemotherapy
 1
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers…
 9
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Midnight Oil
 52
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Blue Sky Mining
 78
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Maas Diente
 1
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
unnamed classic hand crack…
 217
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Phantom Pinnacle
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Numbing the Wild
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
OW Dude
 1
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Dental Floss Tycoon
 63
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Brown Baby Teeth
 3
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
The Incisor
 101
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Heat Searcher
 49
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Rock Lobster
 304
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Inflictor
 81
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Polygrip
 128
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Rhythm Method
 21
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Novacaine
 4
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Mushrooms With Hefner
 2
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches
Terminal Fistula
 2
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Root Canal
 2
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Gingivitis
 24
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Broken Tooth
 96
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Dentist Chair
 26
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Unbelievable
 46
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Insoluble
 1
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Where The Spirit Meets The…
 1
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Dynamic Dentistry
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Tooth Fairy
 22
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Biggie Smiles
 1
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Snaggle Tooth
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Tooth Pac
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Low Fang
 2
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The most comfortable gear/Aslan stone in the creek.
[Hide Photo] The most comfortable gear/Aslan stone in the creek.
From the Fin Wall
[Hide Photo] From the Fin Wall
That one short off width climb on the buttress left of Rock Lobster
[Hide Photo] That one short off width climb on the buttress left of Rock Lobster
It was cold at night, but great in the day!
[Hide Photo] It was cold at night, but great in the day!
Mike Morely hikes down from Broken Tooth wall in evening light. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2007.
[Hide Photo] Mike Morely hikes down from Broken Tooth wall in evening light. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2007.
Broken Tooth wall from 3/4 of the way up the approach, Here the wall is shown in evening light. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2007.
[Hide Photo] Broken Tooth wall from 3/4 of the way up the approach, Here the wall is shown in evening light. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2007.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Does anyone know what the long steep zig zaging splitter not far (like 30') to the right of Dental Floss Tycon is? It's on the pillar, west facing and looks sweet. And it has an anchor... Jun 28, 2015
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
[Hide Comment] Shrooms with Heffner? Jun 29, 2015
[Hide Comment] No, but good guess. Aug 3, 2015
[Hide Comment] Anybody know what time this cliff gets sun/shade this time of year? Sep 17, 2018
[Hide Comment] From Jason Byrd. BLM Outdoor Recreation Planner:

Some updated information on spring/summer 2019 raptor nesting and climbing avoidance areas for IC:

"We just issued a news release and map of the active rapture nesting areas in the Indian Creek Corridor. Here is the web address to the News Release (blm.gov/press-release/annou…). The ?map? is attached to the news release the link is on the right hand side.

Background Information: compliance not to climb in these areas is voluntary and and strongly encouraged, as human disturbance can affect nesting success, however the routes are not legally closed. This requires additional environmental reviews and public notification through the Federal Register, which takes some time. Because of this, we are referring to these routes as "climbing avoidance areas" rather than closures. The entire climbing community is generally very supportive and helpful in these raptor protection efforts, and we hope these voluntary efforts will help keep these locations open outside of the nesting season for your enjoyment.

Please be aware of climbing routes that have nesting raptors. This News Release requests climbers' cooperation in protecting eagles, peregrine falcons, and other migratory birds who use the Indian Creek area to raise their young. Between March 1st and August 31st each year, the BLM asks climbers to avoid climbing these walls until they have been cleared by agency biologists: The Wall, Far Side, Second Meat Wall, Disappointment Cliff, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. Two of these walls are on partially or wholly on lands managed by SITLA, who is working cooperatively with BLM to protect raptors. The BLM and SITLA will survey walls and generally in May can release any routes that don't have active nests. The walls with active nests should be avoided until the young have fledged. Eagles and falcons mate for life and return to the same nest sites year after year to raise their young, your cooperation is vital to their survival. Here is a link to the news release and map of the affected areas (add link here). Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.

Please let me know if you have any questions- Thanks!

Jason Byrd
BLM Outdoor Recreation Planner
Monticello, UT 84535
435-587-1534
jbyrd@blm.gov Feb 21, 2019