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Routes in Broken Tooth

Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mondo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rhythm Method T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 4,179 total, 22/month
Shared By: Joe Gartner on Jan 19, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is a few hundred feet to the left of where the trail meets the rock. It is a long right facing corner that passes through a few roofs. It starts out with some laybacking that quickly turns to perfect hands. Its long, pumpy and awesome. It gets a five star, 5.11 grade in the guide but many will say a #2 Camalot-sized crack can't be harder than 5.10+. Go figure.

(Per claramie's 2008 description for gold crown) " #7 in the bloom book. Didn't look 120' from the ground to me. Start in a right facing .75 to 1 crack up through a roof and change corners. Pause for a rest in the pod. Continue up through another roof and into the offwidth (work the frog step). Power through one last section and keep your cool when you try to clip the anchors. Absolutely AWESOME route!!"

Protection

Mostly #2 Camalots with a few #1 and some smaller stuff for the lieback start

(per claramie's 2008 entry for gold crown) "The bloom book is good. Keep a .75 and a 1 for up higher."
Big Bert
Golden, Colorado
Big Bert   Golden, Colorado
70m rope DOES make it to the ground/belay ledge. Tie a knot in the rope!
moderate sew it up rack:
2x .75's
4x 1's
5x 2's
2x 3
1x 4 Nov 1, 2017
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Great route with lots of rests. But to you folks that claim "70m makes it to the ground just fine", i'd like to clarify that it makes it to about 10 feet from the ground, though easy enough to downclimb the flakes. Mar 21, 2017
Rob Dillon  
 
SC bolt up top...Steve Carruthers? Apr 27, 2016
Moritz B.
  5.11-
Moritz B.  
  5.11-
Don´t do it like the guy in the picture and place a cam right in the roof because the rope will push that cam super deep into the crack. Happens everyday. Be warned. It´s better to place a gold cam with a sling underneath the roof and the next cam a bit above the roof. Oct 20, 2014
Princess Mia
Vail
  5.11a
Princess Mia   Vail
  5.11a
Ok so it is time to merge this one with Unnamed 11-. The real name of this route????? Who knows, it has always been called Unnamed 5.11- in my book......

All that IS irrelevant as the two routes are the same.......

So MP lets not have duplicate routes on here!!!!! I am sure someone knows if this was named way back when or if Gold Crown is some new thing..... May 14, 2013
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
There was no plaque on this back in late November. Mar 30, 2013
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
  5.10+
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
  5.10+
I think this is the same route as "unnamed 10+"? Feb 20, 2013
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
deserves a name, and golden crown fits perfectly for all the golden camalots! Perfect but thoughtful hands through roofs, dihedral switches, a sweet knee lock no hands rest. pure awesome. Apr 1, 2012
Timmamok Murphy
Durango, CO
  5.11-
Timmamok Murphy   Durango, CO
  5.11-
Who decided to go and name this?

It was the best unnamed climb in the creek. Now its just another 4 star hand crack with a name. Jan 27, 2012
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
This climb now has a plaque that says "Gold Crown" Jan 23, 2012
Zeke6
Akron, Ohio
 
Zeke6   Akron, Ohio
 
My favorite route I did in the all 1.5 months in the creek! Devan is correct about the 70m. Jun 29, 2011
Devan Johnson
  5.11
Devan Johnson  
  5.11
Possibly the best route at the creek. Seriously.

The sections between perfect hands are short, but the length of this beauty pushes it into 5.11 territory. 70m makes it to the ground just fine. Nov 27, 2009
I'd call this 5.11-. I put a few blue camalots in, and I also placed a 4 camalot in the wide slot (you could put something smaller in the back of the slot). Fairly pumpy and physical. Really fun. Oct 20, 2008
Yeah, the hardest parts are the start and the end of this fantastic crack, obviously. Not the perfect hand 5.10 that make up most of this route. 5.11- is fair isn't it? Dec 12, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Awesome climb to photograph from 50 meters to the right, at the base of the short 11- and 10+. YOu catch the climber at the crux looking like he's on an arete.
Great route, crux up top is 11- and you are pumped. Mar 19, 2007
I agree with the 5.11a rating, even though it is hand size most of the way. I used mostly #2.5 and #3 friends (11 total). Feb 27, 2007
However, regarding the grade, this route does have a crux. 5.11a Mar 28, 2006
d-know
electric lady land
  5.10+
d-know   electric lady land
  5.10+
don't miss this one! Jan 26, 2006