Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: ??
Page Views: 5,383 total · 24/month
Shared By: Joe Gartner on Jan 19, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

This route is a few hundred feet to the left of where the trail meets the rock. It is a long right facing corner that passes through a few roofs. It starts out with some laybacking that quickly turns to perfect hands. Its long, pumpy and awesome. It gets a five star, 5.11 grade in the guide but many will say a #2 Camalot-sized crack can't be harder than 5.10+. Go figure.

(Per claramie's 2008 description for gold crown) " #7 in the bloom book. Didn't look 120' from the ground to me. Start in a right facing .75 to 1 crack up through a roof and change corners. Pause for a rest in the pod. Continue up through another roof and into the offwidth (work the frog step). Power through one last section and keep your cool when you try to clip the anchors. Absolutely AWESOME route!!"

Protection

Mostly #2 Camalots with a few #1 and some smaller stuff for the lieback start

(per claramie's 2008 entry for gold crown) "The bloom book is good. Keep a .75 and a 1 for up higher."

Photos