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Routes in Broken Tooth

Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mondo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rhythm Method T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: FA Jim Howe, Keith Maas. Early 1990's.
Page Views: 1,051 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 21, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A fun climb with an early crux (have the green camalot ready) and then a pump crux up top if you don't move quickly. Climb the initial thin crack up to a pretty good hold, protect high, but with a sling, traverse left on funky moves to gain the open book to the left and then layback up the good flake. to the anchors. It get easier as you go.

(Per Steven Lucarelli's description on 10/21/09) - "This route climbs a short splitter to a traverse left (crux?) and a small rest stance. Layback and jam the final right facing corner to the anchor."

Location

A few feet left of Blue Sky Mining...
As you head left past the popular unnamed 11- handcrack (entered as 10+ on this site) you will come around a corner past a tree and see 2 short climbs, a 10+ on the right (Blue Sky Mining) in a primarily right facing corner, and an 11- route (Unnamed) switching from a crack on the right to a crack on the left at a horizontal 20' up.

Protection

From very thin hands up to thin hands until the traverse, then thin hands down to thin fingers at the top. 1 cams each .75", 2.5", 1" 2 cams each 1.5", 2". will sew it up.

(Per Steven Lucarelli's gear recommendation on 10/21/09) - ".4 friend to #4 Camalot, 1 each."

Photos

slim

  5.10+
slim    
  5.10+
i merged steven lucarelli's 10/21/09 route entry into tony's route entry for midnight oil. hopefully this helps. Nov 11, 2014
Princess Mia
Vail
  5.10c
Princess Mia   Vail
  5.10c
Yep this is most definitely Midnight Oil!!!!!
10+ May 14, 2013
Robbie Brown
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Robbie Brown   Flagstaff, AZ
 
A good onsight rack would be 3 #1s 3 #.75s 2 #.5s and a .4 C4. Don't bring anything bigger that a Red camelot. May 6, 2013
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11-
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11-
FA Jim Howe, Keith Maas. Apr 3, 2011

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