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Routes in Broken Tooth

Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mondo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rhythm Method T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: K. Maas, J. Howe, Early 1990's.
Page Views: 1,980 total, 15/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 21, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Named after the 'Midnight Oil' album, I presume.
A good route, but relatively short for the cliff. The climb has some variety and still packs a punch in its short length.

Location

As you head left past the popular unnamed 11- handcrack (entered as 10+ on this site) you will come around a corner past a tree and see 2 short climbs, a 10+ on the right in a primarily right facing corner, and an 11- route switching from a crack on the right to a crack on the left at a horizontal 20' up.

Protection

One of everything from thin to 3.5" up top. Optional #4 camalot (new or old style) near the bottom in the obvious placement.

Photos

Clayton Knudson
Moab, UT
Clayton Knudson   Moab, UT
we put on an extension to this route to make it a full 30 meters (with permission from first assentionist). Gear: 0.2 (X1), 0.3 (X2), 0.4 (X2), 0.5 (X2), 0.75 (X4) in BD sizes. Delicate thin entry moves lead to stellar finger locks through a left leaning offset crack opening to a secure flare. One last sting in the tail getting out of the flare to the chains. I think 5.12- but interested in others input. Super fun and a bit pumpy. FA onsight by Alex Pfingsten. Apr 23, 2017
Anchor Fixed Nov 3, 2014
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
Climbed this the other day. One of the anchor bolts at the top is a bit loose. A number four Camalot with a long sling could easily back up the anchor if you are inclined. Mar 24, 2014
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
If you're gonna sew it up, bring doubles in about .75 C4 and down, and singles up to an old style #4 camalot. This route has an interesting face start. Mar 23, 2008
Jim Howe
Salt Lake city
Jim Howe   Salt Lake city
Keith Maas and I put up both of those shorter routes "Blue sky mining" and "Midnight Oil" sometime in the early 90's or whenever that music was getting airplay. Keith was killed in an avalanche near Logan, UT.about '97. Climbing does make nice reminders of good times with good friends. Mar 29, 2007