Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Broken Tooth

Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mondo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rhythm Method T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 207 total · 2/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Oct 18, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This two-pitch route is the corner just left of Broken Tooth. The first pitch is the worst I've climbed at Indian Creek. The rock is loose, hollow, and very sandy, and except for the first piece or two, most protection is dubious. The first pitch is rated 10- in the Bloom guidebook and that seemed about right. It would be good not to fall leading this pitch.

The second pitch ascends a thin-hands and hands size crack up a flake. The rock is quite solid and would even be a good one to push your limits.

I'd give the first pitch a bomb and the second three stars; one star overall.

Location

The corner just left of Broken Tooth. Rappel from a bolted anchor. A 70m rope reaches the ground with a few feet to spare. A 60m rope may not reach so bring an extra rope just to be on the safe side.

Protection

A little of this and a little of that for the first pitch. The second pitch is all #1 and #2 Camalots. #3 Friends will also fit in a couple of places higher up on the second pitch. Each pitch is about sixty feet in length. The latest edition of the Bloom guidebook indicates that there's an intermediate anchor but we didn't see one.

Photos

Anus Herder
Montrose, CO
 
Anus Herder   Montrose, CO
 
Def worth it if you climb both of the 2nd pitches, 5.11 corner thats (.75-.5 BD) enduro laybacking and the super fun #1-2 crack kickback easy 5.10. Anchor after 1st pitch and 2nd, did 2 raps with the 60 Oct 24, 2017
WillK  
I also think the 1st pitch of this climb was terrible. I used several #0.75's and #1's on 2nd pitch. Maybe two #2's as well. In either case, I don't know why it says to take so many #2 in Bloom book. They weren't very useful in the 1st pitch either. Oct 23, 2017
drini13
 
drini13  
 
First pitch was dirty and loose for most of the climb. Pro wasn't terrible but not confidence inspiring. Needed to use some OW techniques for first pitch. No anchors at top of first pitch. Second pitch was a blast - mostly #1 and #2 BDs Oct 12, 2014
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
 
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
 
Lower pitch wasn't that great, pretty sandy. Bring finger size pieces. The upper pitch is much better, I really enjoyed it. Aug 13, 2014
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
The crack that forms the left side of the Gingivitis "pillar" and goes to the same anchor was pretty fun, 5.11- or so. (It's not listed in the book.) Jan 27, 2014
Riley Jordan
USA
  5.10
Riley Jordan   USA
  5.10
Bloom's guide book shows bolts at the top of the 1st pitch, no bolts but you can build an anchor or link pitches. 2nd pitch was fun. Dec 4, 2013
Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Wylie   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Worst climb! Come on, it's a great warm up and catches the sun early for those cold days. A little loose rock and weird thuggery makes the clean splitters that much better. Apr 23, 2013
Really shitty and loose first pitch leeds to good second pitch. Definitely no intermediate belay. 65m rope will get you down. Worst climbing I did at the creek. Apr 18, 2010

More About Gingivitis

Printer-Friendly Guide