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Routes in Broken Tooth

Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mondo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rhythm Method T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,391 total, 29/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Mar 17, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is the thin finger and tips crack in between Rock Lobster and Polygrip. It's often toproped and my understanding is that it's only seen a couple leads.

Location

Thin crack in between Rock Lobster and Polygrip. Shares anchor with Polygrip, but is commonly toproped from anchors on Rock Lobster.

Protection

Thin stuff up to 1.5 Friend, heavy in tips and finger sizes.

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Fun route. Climbed this with one .4 and one .5 for no particular reason. Was a wee bit runout. At least 3-4 .4s, a .5, and a .75 or two are highly recommended. Also barn-doored off the great rest before the crux for no particular reason. Had no trouble otherwise. Mar 6, 2017
I felt that 2 .5s and 1 .75 was a little light on this climb, well over a third of this climb is that size, and it's nice to have one down low as well, 3 of each would easily be placed Nov 28, 2015
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
  5.12b
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
  5.12b
I agree with the anchor comments...really could have its own anchor.
this would help with the rope grooves. Dec 15, 2012
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
  5.12b
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
  5.12b
this is one where size really does matter...only smaller is better !
this was one of the hardest .12- ive done. Dec 15, 2012
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Went straight for it on lead..NTB gear down low is kinda wierd, but takes nuts great. super fun with good movement. A few times I wanted to step over to RL and finish on that, but hung in there instead. 5.11 May 4, 2011
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.12-
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.12-
Like a longer Puma. Nov 17, 2010
Ol Toby
CA
  5.12a/b
Ol Toby   CA
  5.12a/b
Unlikely that this has seen few leads as the crack takes great gear. I found this to be an .11+ finger crack with a definite crux section where the crack pinches to tips, then beautiful .11 fingers to the top. The only detraction is that one could stem/reach to the Rock Lobster crack at key points, making the direct line slightly contrived. Still a beautiful line offering great climbing.

I support adding independent anchors to this line. Definitely good enough and toproping from either of the other anchors is causing obvious drag marks on the rock. Mar 22, 2009
So...if we fix up some anchors on this cliff with chains and such, would anybody freak if this got its own anchor? Running the rope off of Rock Lobster or Polygrip seems to have caused a hell of a lot more damage than a couple bolts would have. Mar 9, 2009
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
I agree that this route is most often toproped. I have lead it and know of multiple others who have as well. Pro is safe and plentiful. It actually takes stoppers in multiple places. My guess is that it has seem more than the "couple" leads the original poster claims it's seem. Apr 1, 2008