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Routes in Broken Tooth

Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mondo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rhythm Method T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 3,354 total, 22/month
Shared By: fishman on Mar 2, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

located far left on Broken Tooth. almost always shady. steep fingers,wide fingers goes into a slightly leaning, endless fist/rattly fist splitter. hard to see the anchors (which should probably be renovated).

Protection

(1ea.)#1 friend,.5,.75,1,2 camalot,(2ea.)#3,3.5 friends,(6-8)#4 friends. you can supplement with a few #4 camalots if #4 friends are in short supply.

Photos

slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
well, doing the start in converse all stars with sort of sticky rubber would kind of suck... May 30, 2017
blue ribbon
Indian Creek, UT
  5.11+
blue ribbon   Indian Creek, UT
  5.11+
I couldn't imagine how any 5.12 Creek climber could honestly believe that Steve Hong graded this thing 12-. Just sayin'.... May 29, 2017
Raddam6
Salt Lake
 
Raddam6   Salt Lake
 
The crux at the start felt 5.12-. The fist splitter would probably be 5.10c in Yosemite. I have big hands. Fist was rattely for one move. May 8, 2016
Anchor updated with modern bolt and elimination of the tat! Nov 3, 2014
John C
Moab
 
John C   Moab
 
Truly great route—I agree that the anchor could probably use a little bit of updating. The left bolt is a spinning SMC buttonhead with an old sun-bleached piece of cord equalizing it with the right, which is the original Hong bolt with his initials on the hanger. If anyone does go to replace it, it would be pretty cool to try and leave the initialed, home-made Hong bolt, just for the sake of historical significance. Maybe just replace the SMC and add a third. May 15, 2014
Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
  5.12c/d
Josh Ewing   Bluff, UT
  5.12c/d
I hate to play the "hard size for my hand size" card, but this one felt ridiculously hard...much harder than at least three 5.13s at the Creek (Tricks, Optimator, Ruby's). I guess this is penance for all those thin hands cracks, which don't seem that hard. The crux move over the low roof seems just on the edge of possible, with the right-hand jam too rattly to really help. And the last 60 feet of new 4 camalots are just beyond rattly fists...requiring a lot of stacking with bad feet. One of the most aesthetic and challenging lines I've done anywhere.

Agreed that the anchor could use "modernization." I'll take the drill/bolts the next time I'm up there. But if someone beats me to it, let me know. Nov 21, 2012
Hoez
Uganda
Hoez   Uganda
not a crack climber but this looks like a lot of fun... maybe ill make this my first crack climb Aug 24, 2012
INCREDIBLE! Feb 8, 2012