Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 3,651 total · 21/month
Shared By: fishman on Mar 2, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

located far left on Broken Tooth. almost always shady. steep fingers,wide fingers goes into a slightly leaning, endless fist/rattly fist splitter. hard to see the anchors (which should probably be renovated).

Protection

(1ea.)#1 friend,.5,.75,1,2 camalot,(2ea.)#3,3.5 friends,(6-8)#4 friends. you can supplement with a few #4 camalots if #4 friends are in short supply.

Photos

INCREDIBLE! Feb 8, 2012
Hoez
Uganda
Hoez   Uganda
not a crack climber but this looks like a lot of fun... maybe ill make this my first crack climb Aug 24, 2012
Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
  5.12c/d
Josh Ewing   Bluff, UT
  5.12c/d
I hate to play the "hard size for my hand size" card, but this one felt ridiculously hard...much harder than at least three 5.13s at the Creek (Tricks, Optimator, Ruby's). I guess this is penance for all those thin hands cracks, which don't seem that hard. The crux move over the low roof seems just on the edge of possible, with the right-hand jam too rattly to really help. And the last 60 feet of new 4 camalots are just beyond rattly fists...requiring a lot of stacking with bad feet. One of the most aesthetic and challenging lines I've done anywhere.

Agreed that the anchor could use "modernization." I'll take the drill/bolts the next time I'm up there. But if someone beats me to it, let me know. Nov 21, 2012
john collis
Moab
 
john collis   Moab
 
Truly great routeĀ—I agree that the anchor could probably use a little bit of updating. The left bolt is a spinning SMC buttonhead with an old sun-bleached piece of cord equalizing it with the right, which is the original Hong bolt with his initials on the hanger. If anyone does go to replace it, it would be pretty cool to try and leave the initialed, home-made Hong bolt, just for the sake of historical significance. Maybe just replace the SMC and add a third. May 15, 2014
Sam Feuerborn
Carbondale
 
Sam Feuerborn   Carbondale
 
Anchor updated with modern bolt and elimination of the tat! Nov 3, 2014
The crux at the start felt 5.12-. The fist splitter would probably be 5.10c in Yosemite. I have big hands. Fist was rattely for one move. May 8, 2016
blue ribbon
Indian Creek, UT
  5.11+
blue ribbon   Indian Creek, UT
  5.11+
I couldn't imagine how any 5.12 Creek climber could honestly believe that Steve Hong graded this thing 12-. Just sayin'.... May 29, 2017
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
well, doing the start in converse all stars with sort of sticky rubber would kind of suck... May 30, 2017