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Routes in Broken Tooth

Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mondo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rhythm Method T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Steve Carruthers, Steve Hong , Karin Budding and Tom Carruthers
Page Views: 3,712 total, 19/month
Shared By: Max Schon on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Slightly hard than Rock Lobster, but way better. The Ruckman's guidebook says something about taping the right side of your harness for the finger layback section, but that's an exaggeration. The pitch begins with some tight hands and good feet that goes to a big ledge at the beginning of the killer finger layback section. Layback about forty feet of perfect fingers (yellow aliens), pull a thin hands bulge (crux), and finish with some thin hands.

Protection

Bomber fingers, like yellow aliens, and some thin hands, like green and red camalots.

Photos

Wei-Ming Lam
Phoenix, AZ
 
Wei-Ming Lam   Phoenix, AZ
 
Consider cleaning your gear on the way down near the little mini roof at the end of the layback corner to route the rope outside the crack. If you leave cams in there it pulls the rope into the crack, and the rope will increase wear there from the fricton of lowering/top rope belaying, thereby widening the crack over time. Nov 16, 2015
Steve Carruthers did the first ascent of this route with Steve Hong , Karin Budding and myself . It was a good weekend when we discovered the Broken Tooth Wall . Feb 17, 2014
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Length is ~115'. A 60m rope did not reach. A 70m would. Jan 27, 2014
Eric and Lucie
Boulder, CO
Eric and Lucie   Boulder, CO
Hardest move here may only be slightly harder than the crux of Rock Lobster, but Polygrip is extremely sustained, which RL is definitely not. Nov 28, 2011
snowhazed
Oakland, Ca
  5.11+
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
  5.11+
Sustained is the word. Definitely baggy fingers, rings over the bulge. It protects with purple camalot- I'd like to know who's getting thin hands there. Much much harder than RL- once the layback starts there's no rest until you punch the rings above the bulge to the handjam. And you're still not done.... Apr 7, 2010
Bob Rotert
  5.11+
Bob Rotert  
  5.11+
Slightly, much harder than Rock Lobster. Awesome route!! Dec 8, 2008
d-know
electric lady land
  5.11+
d-know   electric lady land
  5.11+
cool route. mellow start. pumpy mid section, and almost desperate finish. Jan 26, 2006
Getting over the roof is on #1.5 friends, so its more of ringlocks than thin hands. If you can't get thin hands at the roof, the 11+ rating in the Marco guide is more accurate. Considerably harder than Rock Lobster. Mar 29, 2004
Max Schon  
 
Can miss it. There are three splitter crack climbs right next to each other when you get to the base of the wall. From left to right it goes: Rock Lobster, Inflictor, Polygrip. Nov 11, 2003
Good route description Max, but where is the climb in reference to the trail. We wouldn't want someone jumping on a 5.12+ because they thought it was Polygrip... Nov 1, 2003