Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Steve Carruthers, Steve Hong , Karin Budding and Tom Carruthers
Page Views: 4,059 total · 20/month
Shared By: Max Schon on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Slightly hard than Rock Lobster, but way better. The Ruckman's guidebook says something about taping the right side of your harness for the finger layback section, but that's an exaggeration. The pitch begins with some tight hands and good feet that goes to a big ledge at the beginning of the killer finger layback section. Layback about forty feet of perfect fingers (yellow aliens), pull a thin hands bulge (crux), and finish with some thin hands.


Bomber fingers, like yellow aliens, and some thin hands, like green and red camalots.


Good route description Max, but where is the climb in reference to the trail. We wouldn't want someone jumping on a 5.12+ because they thought it was Polygrip... Nov 1, 2003
Max Schon
Max Schon  
Can miss it. There are three splitter crack climbs right next to each other when you get to the base of the wall. From left to right it goes: Rock Lobster, Inflictor, Polygrip. Nov 11, 2003
Getting over the roof is on #1.5 friends, so its more of ringlocks than thin hands. If you can't get thin hands at the roof, the 11+ rating in the Marco guide is more accurate. Considerably harder than Rock Lobster. Mar 29, 2004
electric lady land
d-know   electric lady land
cool route. mellow start. pumpy mid section, and almost desperate finish. Jan 26, 2006
Bob Rotert
Bob Rotert  
Slightly, much harder than Rock Lobster. Awesome route!! Dec 8, 2008
Oakland, Ca
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
Sustained is the word. Definitely baggy fingers, rings over the bulge. It protects with purple camalot- I'd like to know who's getting thin hands there. Much much harder than RL- once the layback starts there's no rest until you punch the rings above the bulge to the handjam. And you're still not done.... Apr 7, 2010
Eric and Lucie
Boulder, CO
Eric and Lucie   Boulder, CO
Hardest move here may only be slightly harder than the crux of Rock Lobster, but Polygrip is extremely sustained, which RL is definitely not. Nov 28, 2011
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Length is ~115'. A 60m rope did not reach. A 70m would. Jan 27, 2014
Steve Carruthers did the first ascent of this route with Steve Hong , Karin Budding and myself . It was a good weekend when we discovered the Broken Tooth Wall . Feb 17, 2014
Wei-Ming Lam
Phoenix, AZ
Wei-Ming Lam   Phoenix, AZ
Consider cleaning your gear on the way down near the little mini roof at the end of the layback corner to route the rope outside the crack. If you leave cams in there it pulls the rope into the crack, and the rope will increase wear there from the fricton of lowering/top rope belaying, thereby widening the crack over time. Nov 16, 2015