Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mike Schneiter
Page Views: 705 total · 5/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Mar 17, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start by climbing an open corner with some face features and difficult stemming/smearing to a large pod. To protect this, use a blue Alien below the pod. You can also stick clip or maybe toss in a large stopper into the crack above. Above the pod, climb an offwidth crack with nice face features. The crack eventually turns into nice hands before the anchor on the right. Rating this climb is difficult as the initial moves are pretty hard (bouldery) and the crack above is maybe 10+/11-. A fun climb, in my opinion.

Location

Located 50 feet right of the popular hand crack, Unnamed 5.11-, on the left side of Broken Tooth. Climbs a right facing corner with a large pod 15 feet up. Plaque at the base.

Protection

The start takes a blue Alien and/or a large stopper. Above, cams from #1 Camalot to new #5 or #6 Camalot, with doubles in #4. Two bolt chain anchor.

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Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
I'm not sure about the blue alien or 'large' stoppers to protect the start. We did some adventure climbing up the back of this thing (chimney/20 feet of 5.9 hands) to get up top and used the anchors to get down, then decided to try it out on TR. FUN stemming/palming moves to get to the crack, then some nice moderate OW to finish it off. Seriously, I hate off width and I was actually enjoying this one (granted it was TR). Bring your micro stoppers and then pray they hold if you want to try to protect the first 15 feet. Apr 1, 2012