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Routes in Broken Tooth

Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mondo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rhythm Method T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: David Marcinowski, Luke Mehall FFA: Jonathan Schaffer
Page Views: 1,215 total · 15/month
Shared By: Luke Mehall on Dec 18, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A varied route, a boulder problem start, followed by and off-width section, then face climbing up to the final crux finger crack/layback. 2 ropes are needed, unless you have an 80 meter rope, which should work.

Location

The next route over, to the right, from Tooth Fairy.

Protection

Rack: Purple metolius (1) blue metolius (1) orange metolius (2-3) .3 camalot (2-3) .4 camalot (2-3) .5 camalot (4) #1 camalot (2) #2 camalot (1) #3 camalot (2) #4 camalot (1) #5 camalot (1) #6 camalot (2)

Two ropes are needed, though an 80 meter should work if you have one.

Photos

Luke Mehall
Durango, Colorado
  5.12-
Luke Mehall   Durango, Colorado
  5.12-
Just got on this again after five years.

Realized my gear beta was a bit off, you need some .3 cams for the top. So I fixed that. Route beta in the book is probably wrong, as it is the same as the original posting here from 2011.

Stoked some peeps are getting on it. Saw some chalk up there. Mar 28, 2016

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