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Routes in Broken Tooth

Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mondo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rhythm Method T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 531 total · 4/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 6, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start with fingers in a really tight flare to a short wide section and then a left-facing crack with some pods. The rock gets softer towards the top.

Location

Route is located towards the left end of the wall, a little to the left of Blue Sky Mining and the Unnamed 5.11-. The tight flare should not be too hard to locate.

Protection

(2) #.3 Camalots, (6) #.4 Camalots, (2) #.5 & #.75 Camalots, (1) #3 or #4 Camalot for the wide section.

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Dom Ngo
Canada
Dom Ngo   Canada
I'd go a bit heavier on .5's for the sandier section above the flare up top. Maybe 1-2 more. Great little route. Dec 25, 2016

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