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Routes in Broken Tooth

Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mondo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rhythm Method T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Petro & Royster
Page Views: 3,881 total, 30/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Apr 3, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Heat Searcher is a phenominal climb at a cliff of phenominal climbs. It obviously receives less traffic than the other classics, perhaps because of the apparently chossy approach pitch, or perhaps just because there is an approach pitch, period. In any case, those who overlook this climb are missing out.

Begin in the chimney behind the pillar just left of Rock Lobster.

P1: Climb the loose chimney and then eventually up twin cracks on somewhat suspect rock to a good belay ledge. Despite some poor rock, the pitch climbs extremely well. 5.10+, 120'.

P2: Launch up a short bomb bay slot and then pull up onto the extremely steep thin hands crack. 5.11+, 70'.

Protection

P1: Bring the stuff you need for pitch two plus a selection of TCU's.

P2: Camalots, in order of placement:

1x #3.5
1x #2
4x #1's
2x 0.75's
1x #2 (for the pod)
2x 0.5's
Draws for the anchor.

Two ropes to rap.

Photos

Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
 
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
 
Added beefy rap rings to the top anchor courtesy of the ASCA. There was so much tat up there you couldn't even clip the bolts...

A good samaritan could bring up a can of Tan Spraypaint to help camo the new chain that I added to the P1 belay. Both anchors have two good bolts and I'm guessing Josh fixed up the P1 belay, which works pretty well.

An 80m rope is perfect for getting down from the P1 anchor. The second half of pitch one is awesome, killer stemming on good rock, makes up for the sandy chimney at the start. Apr 15, 2013
Princess Mia
Vail
 
Princess Mia   Vail
 
Spectacular climb. Two great pitches. The head wall splitter is one of the best. Nov 2, 2012
Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
Josh Ewing   Bluff, UT
Great climb. Worst possible anchor placement. I'll add a bolt around the arete next time to allow a comfortable belay for the second pitch. Otherwise, do it in one crazy long 70m pitch, trailing a second line. Burly. Jun 24, 2012
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
  5.11
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
  5.11
One of the best splitters at its grade... Jan 23, 2012
for those who have done Blue Sky Mining and are looking for a non-wide 5.10 at Broken Tooth (two of the 5.10+'s listed here are repeats of Unknown 11- and Pussy Wuss Crack), the first pitch of Heat Searcher is a really great chimneying and stemming pitch. the chimney is undeniably a bit sandy and has a couple hollow flakes, but the 80 feet of twin crack climbing above is as good as it gets at the grade. get on it if you're looking for something a bit more moderate at this cliff, or a warm-up that isn't wide or is a little less physical than Blue Sky.

also, it's more like 125+ feet - our 70 meter rope took me within about 10 feet of the deck, luckily in easily down-climbable terrain. Apr 19, 2010
Amir erez
Boulder, CO
Amir erez   Boulder, CO
A 4.5 camalot helps protect the belay as you go into the bombay on P2 Mar 26, 2009
Brian Weinstein
  5.11+
Brian Weinstein  
  5.11+
Stellar line. Easily one of the best I have done in the desert. Thin hands up high turned to stacks for a good 25 feet for me. So good. Nov 29, 2008