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Routes in Broken Tooth
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Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mondo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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OW Dude T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rhythm Method T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Petro & Royster |
| Page Views: | 4,980 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Apr 3, 2007 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect March 1st 2021
Details
No toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2021 Raptor Avoidance Areas
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, and often return to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that climbers and hikers avoid nest areas during critical nesting periods, typically in early March through late August. Avoiding climbing and hiking in the vicinity of the nests and keeping a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the BLM asks the public to avoid climbing or hiking in areas with high potential or historically known to have bird nesting activity. The impacted areas are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or their many names. For access to a map of raptor avoidance area or any questions about raptors and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Thomas Plank or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Full press release: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2021 Raptor Avoidance Areas
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, and often return to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that climbers and hikers avoid nest areas during critical nesting periods, typically in early March through late August. Avoiding climbing and hiking in the vicinity of the nests and keeping a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the BLM asks the public to avoid climbing or hiking in areas with high potential or historically known to have bird nesting activity. The impacted areas are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or their many names. For access to a map of raptor avoidance area or any questions about raptors and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Thomas Plank or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Full press release: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
Heat Searcher is a phenominal climb at a cliff of phenominal climbs. It obviously receives less traffic than the other classics, perhaps because of the apparently chossy approach pitch, or perhaps just because there is an approach pitch, period. In any case, those who overlook this climb are missing out.
Begin in the chimney behind the pillar just left of Rock Lobster.
P1: Climb the loose chimney and then eventually up twin cracks on somewhat suspect rock to a good belay ledge. Despite some poor rock, the pitch climbs extremely well. 5.10+, 120'.
P2: Launch up a short bomb bay slot and then pull up onto the extremely steep thin hands crack. 5.11+, 70'.
Begin in the chimney behind the pillar just left of Rock Lobster.
P1: Climb the loose chimney and then eventually up twin cracks on somewhat suspect rock to a good belay ledge. Despite some poor rock, the pitch climbs extremely well. 5.10+, 120'.
P2: Launch up a short bomb bay slot and then pull up onto the extremely steep thin hands crack. 5.11+, 70'.
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