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Routes in Broken Tooth

Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mondo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rhythm Method T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Craig Luebben
Page Views: 2,833 total, 30/month
Shared By: Patrick Kingsbury on Mar 27, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Long Offwidth on the far right of the Broken Tooth.

hands, fist, chimney, and offwidth splitter. No crux, just sustained.

One of the best offwidths in the creek.

Location

Far right side of the Broken Tooth

Protection

fingers, hands, lots of new BD 5s, and #2 bros
Anchor cordellette (consisting of two bolts and a single cordellette connecting them and going through a ring and biner) is looking a little aged. If I'd known I would have brought up some cord to leave behind. Great climb! Nov 28, 2017
Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Ray Lovestead   Boulder, CO
  5.11+
What a masterpiece. This thing is LOOONG. Bring 2 ropes and a will to succeed.

The deathblock is still there and spices up the route. Make sure your belayer is aware of it as you climb to it so they can move over.

My (new) favorite OW in IC. Dec 1, 2016
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
Agree. Use caution mantling into the base of the flare...you'll be pulling on a death block. Dec 5, 2015
Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
 
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
 
Falling onto any gear before the flare/squeeze would not be good, the large flake/crack you climb flexes significantly. As for the rest of the route, it's excellent rock up a very challenging offwidth. Recommended to save a #3 or #4 for the top portion of this climb. Dec 13, 2012