Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Craig Luebben
Page Views: 2,910 total · 27/month
Shared By: snowhazed on Mar 20, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Aesthetic and grueling offwidth in a clean flaring corner. Crux for bigger people will be the first 20 feet consisting of tight handstacks without knee locks. Get creative to move those hands up! From there it widens to #5, then #6 camalots for a ways to a handjam below a tight cave. Pulling into this cave is the other burly crux. Use a nut behind a chockstone (there's only one that isn't loose) so you don't step on your gear thrutching in. Then a bunch more #5 and #6. At the end the corner starts to separate and gear would be hard to find and awkward to place- just run it about 12 feet switching to left side in and make an exciting heel hook to gain the top of the right side of the corner. Yeah!


To the right of Unbelievable


Lots of wide stuff and believe it or not a few med-lrg nuts.


Patrick Kingsbury
Anthem, AZ
Patrick Kingsbury   Anthem, AZ
FA: Craig Luebben Mar 27, 2010
Princess Mia
Princess Mia   Vail

Do I need to say more????

Absolutely amazing, sustained forever, many BD #5 (new style).......

The start wasn't too bad for me as I got great stacks, but further up the stacks turned really crappy....... The pod is fun, both getting into and out of......

A 70 meter rope works perfectly, but just, so pay attention!!!!

The ultimate climb for screaming barfies....... Jun 12, 2012
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
did not find good nut placement ( #6 instead) and no heel hook.
My gear was in Camalots:
single from 0.4-#3 , 2#4, 4#5, 2#6 Oct 18, 2013