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Routes in Broken Tooth

Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mondo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rhythm Method T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,090 total · 36/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Nov 5, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Starts on top of a small block with tight hands in a flare which quickly go to hands and big hands. Pull up into a large cave below the "tooth". Move out left and pull up over the "tooth". Finish up the narrowing left-facing offset to the anchors.

Location

Starts towards the right side of the wall. Look for the distinctive broken roof and tight hands in a flare start. Great looking line.

Protection

Three of everything from .5 camalot to 3 camalot. And a 4 and/or 4.5 camalot.

Photos

Ethan Neff  
 
This is a brilliant climb! One of my favorites in the Creek. It can be a heart breaker getting shut down at the crux (which is the last 4 feet before the anchors). Aug 13, 2008
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Wow that is tough. The tight corner isn't easy. Pulling the roof to establish on the tooth isn't easy and finishing the .75 to .5 corner would be really rough to jam in good style. I had to lieback ig time to finish this one. Nov 13, 2008
Ol Toby
CA
  5.12-
Ol Toby   CA
  5.12-
One of the best in the Creek. An awesome rest in the cave after the pumpy start, a unique tooth-wrassling sequence to a good stance, then a pumpy and sustained off-fingers finish to the chains. Superb! Jul 16, 2013
W.S.
Montana
  5.12-
W.S.   Montana
  5.12-
One of the most interesting pitches in Indian Creek, in my opinion. Engaging and fun as hell from bottom to top. Nov 20, 2013
Patrick Pharo
Boulder, CO
Patrick Pharo   Boulder, CO
Agreed, this is one of the best pitches in the area. Jan 15, 2015

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