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Routes in Broken Tooth
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Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Maas Diente T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mondo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Novacaine T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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OW Dude T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rhythm Method T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ukrainian Root Canal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Where The Spirit Meets The Bone T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 38.10072, -109.56618 |
| FA: | Chris Kalous, Jonathan Thesenga, Brooke Parker |
| Page Views: | 1,908 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Kalous on Nov 8, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
2026 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Tight hands double cracks lead to very thin climbing. Finish through steep varied climbing to a 1" layback section. The thin part is actually kinda a chimney section reminiscent of the bolt move on Desert Shield, but longer. Easy to hang out and place gear, but very difficult to move. Very cool and unusual. I had to clean it up quite a bit on the FA, so it may be dirty again. Likely not seen a 2nd ascent. Worth the effort.
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