Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Chris Kalous, Jonathan Thesenga, Brooke Parker
Page Views: 1,015 total · 7/month
Shared By: chris Kalous on Nov 8, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Tight hands double cracks lead to very thin climbing. Finish through steep varied climbing to a 1" layback section. The thin part is actually kinda a chimney section reminiscent of the bolt move on Desert Shield, but longer. Easy to hang out and place gear, but very difficult to move. Very cool and unusual. I had to clean it up quite a bit on the FA, so it may be dirty again. Likely not seen a 2nd ascent. Worth the effort.

Location

It's in the book. Left side of Broken Tooth. There is (was?) a plaque.

Protection

Tight hands to #0 TCUS. Take three or four #0s. Save some 1" for the top. I had a big cam (4.5 camalot) for a pod in the middle, but maybe not necessary.

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