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Routes in Broken Tooth

Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mondo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rhythm Method T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,823 total, 45/month
Shared By: William McGehee on Oct 3, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route lies approximately 50' to the right of the leaning pillar that defines Brokentooth Wall at the top of the approach trail. Cupping hands for the first 80', with rests in four or five flares fairly evenly spaced after 50'. Narrows to fingers near the top for the crux. Traverse right, go up, then back left to avoid the .11b if necessary. Can be TR'd with two 60's but you have to get around the knot. Great route!

Protection

Six or seven 3's for the first 80' or so, one number 2, two 1.5's, and two 1's for the crux (finget stacking crack) to the chains.
drini13
  5.10d
drini13  
  5.10d
Superb climb! I'd give this a 5.10+ rating for those with small hands. Excellent finish Oct 12, 2014
I am glad people are enjoying this route . I named it based on the B 52's song . Feb 17, 2014
Phill T
  5.11-
Phill T  
  5.11-
the whole thing is less than vertical so you can stay on your feet really well. first 70% is nice hands (mostly blue c4s) to a no hands rest pod. gradually tightens down to purple c4s with the occasional small pod to help slot feet and hands. Get on it! Apr 1, 2012
snowhazed
Oakland, Ca
 
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
 
Three #3 camalots- unless you like climbing above tipped out #2s Apr 7, 2010
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
I think the gear list means #3 friends, which are about equivalent to #2 camalots. Nov 23, 2008
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
I only took 2 #3s. Plenty of #2s though. Excellent cruiser hands up to that last pod. Great, tough finish. I learned how to ring lock on this one. My only question is who didn't give this thing 4 stars? Amazing!! Nov 13, 2008
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
This is the best route I've done in the Creek so far. There's an ever so slight offset during the hands section, so figure out how to deal with it quickly or it'll upset your rhythm constantly. Mar 23, 2008
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11b
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11b
Fantastic climb! I would highly recommend this one to everybody. Great finish. Feb 3, 2007
m-earle
USA
 
m-earle   USA
 
I dissagree with the first comment. rock lobster is probably the easyest/best climb at broken tooth, but the relativly small buttress has many other stellar climbs. Nov 13, 2006
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.11b/c
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.11b/c
This route is about 35 meters long and can just barely be toproped with a single 70m. Great pitch, pretty hard at the end, I would say it is solid 5.11. Nov 13, 2006
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
now there is a few short warm-ups to the left. May 22, 2005
Joe Collins
  5.11a
Joe Collins  
  5.11a
This is an all-time Indian Creek classic and probably one of the softer 11s you'll ever do. Its a great intro to finger stacks, since the crux section is less than vertical and there are slightly wider parts for the feet. If there are cars already parked at Broken Tooth when you arrive, then you best go elsewhere since there isn't a huge selection of climbs and everyone wants to do Rock Lobster. Oct 21, 2003