Type: Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,387 total · 46/month
Shared By: William McGehee on Oct 3, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Warning Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route lies approximately 50' to the right of the leaning pillar that defines Brokentooth Wall at the top of the approach trail. Cupping hands for the first 80', with rests in four or five flares fairly evenly spaced after 50'. Narrows to fingers near the top for the crux. Traverse right, go up, then back left to avoid the .11b if necessary. Can be TR'd with two 60's but you have to get around the knot. Great route!

Protection Suggest change

Six or seven 3's for the first 80' or so, one number 2, two 1.5's, and two 1's for the crux (finget stacking crack) to the chains.