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Routes in TEMP RAPTOR AVOIDANCE AREA SEE MAIN PAGE Broken Tooth
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Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mondo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rhythm Method T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 115 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 8,664 total · 46/month |
| Shared By: | William McGehee on Oct 3, 2003 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas
Details
Please be aware of climbing routes that have nesting raptors. This News Release requests climbers' cooperation in protecting eagles, peregrine falcons, and other migratory birds who use the Indian Creek area to raise their young. Between March 1st and August 31st each year, the BLM asks climbers to avoid climbing these walls until they have been cleared by agency biologists: The Wall, Far Side, Second Meat Wall, Disappointment Cliff, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. Two of these walls are on partially or wholly on lands managed by SITLA, who is working cooperatively with BLM to protect raptors. The BLM and SITLA will survey walls and generally in May can release any routes that don't have active nests. The walls with active nests should be avoided until the young have fledged. Eagles and falcons mate for life and return to the same nest sites year after year to raise their young, your cooperation is vital to their survival.
The revised map for Raptor Avoidance:
(The map previously posted was requested by Jason Byrd to be deleted due to errors.)
The news release: blm.gov/press-release/annou….
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
The revised map for Raptor Avoidance:
(The map previously posted was requested by Jason Byrd to be deleted due to errors.)
The news release: blm.gov/press-release/annou….
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info.
Details
This area is currently listed as a "raptor avoidance area". It is not a closure, but if you see the birds it is asked that you avoid the area. See the main page and/or contact the BLM for further details. Thanks.
Description
This route lies approximately 50' to the right of the leaning pillar that defines Brokentooth Wall at the top of the approach trail. Cupping hands for the first 80', with rests in four or five flares fairly evenly spaced after 50'. Narrows to fingers near the top for the crux. Traverse right, go up, then back left to avoid the .11b if necessary. Can be TR'd with two 60's but you have to get around the knot. Great route!
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