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Routes in Broken Tooth

Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mondo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rhythm Method T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,771 total, 20/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Nov 6, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Great looking right-facing corner. Starts with a few feet of hands and quickly slims down. There are a few pods for a tight-hand jam and a "rest". The crux is a short section where the crack pinches down to tips.

Location

Route starts on the right side of the wall, just a little farther to the right of Broken Tooth. Can't miss this corner.

Protection

A selection of pieces in the fingers to tight-hands range (purple to green Camalots, a blue Alien). Some hand pieces as well (red and gold Camalots).

Photos

Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
 
Josh Ewing   Bluff, UT
 
A clean 5.11 corner with one or two hard moves (well protected). This is on my list for anchor replacement...but let me know if you get there first. Nov 26, 2012
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12
This is a mega classic for sure! It had Steve Hong hangers so I'm assuming thats who got the FA? Oct 25, 2012
BronsonH  
 
FA?? Apr 3, 2012
Great climb: steep pumpy corner to a big move. Nothing smaller than a purple camalot is needed, the small cam that you might place at the crux is bad (I ripped a blue alien), pumpy to place, and just a foot or two above a bomber finger-sized cam.

Have fun,
-Scott Nov 6, 2009
A concentration of .5 and .75 Camalots with a #3 at the start and a #3 to protect the OW flare move at the finish. One purple TCU adequately protects the crux move without blocking the holds and be sure to have a couple 1 and 2 Camalots as well.

Great Route! Nov 15, 2007