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Dental Floss Tycoon
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 76
votes
Routes in Broken Tooth
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Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Maas Diente T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mondo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Novacaine T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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OW Dude T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rhythm Method T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ukrainian Root Canal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Where The Spirit Meets The Bone T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| GPS: | 38.10072, -109.56618 |
| FA: | unknown to me |
| Page Views: | 5,041 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on May 13, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
2026 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
I wish the MP had a rating between good and great: a 2.5 star.
The softest 11 in Bloom's book?
A long, fun right-facing corner with rests. The first half follows a single crack of hands and wide hands. The second half has double cracks, wide on the left, thin on the right. No hard moves, but gear/lead management is an issue. There is a decent stance at the anchors, so if the leader doesn't feel like hauling a 2nd rope up there, he/she can comfortably belay on high.
At about 2/3's height take a look to your left and check out the massive eye bolt on the next climb over (not in Bloom). Was a jackhammer used to drill that hole?
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