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Routes in Broken Tooth

Biggie Smiles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Broken Tooth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Baby Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemotherapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dental Floss Tycoon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dentist Chair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dynamic Dentistry T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingivitis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Searcher T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incisor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inflictor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insoluble T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Low Fang S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midnight Oil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mondo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mushrooms With Hefner T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Novacaine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Numbing the Wild T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polygrip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rhythm Method T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rock Lobster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snaggle Tooth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terminal Fistula T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Fairy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tooth Pac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unbelievable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 3,254 total · 22/month
Shared By: david goldstein on May 13, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Edit]

I wish the MP had a rating between good and great: a 2.5 star.

The softest 11 in Bloom's book?

A long, fun right-facing corner with rests. The first half follows a single crack of hands and wide hands. The second half has double cracks, wide on the left, thin on the right. No hard moves, but gear/lead management is an issue. There is a decent stance at the anchors, so if the leader doesn't feel like hauling a 2nd rope up there, he/she can comfortably belay on high.

At about 2/3's height take a look to your left and check out the massive eye bolt on the next climb over (not in Bloom). Was a jackhammer used to drill that hole?

Location [Edit]

Starts in the alcove on the left side of the huge pillar where the trail comes up.

Protection [Edit]

Camalots: several #2 & #3s, 1 or 2 #4s, a few in the .4 to #1 range, draws and runners. Zircon-encrusted tweezers.

Photos

This is a long (maybe more like 165' than 150'), fun route. My partner and I agreed that 5.10b is a more appropriate rating. Feb 27, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Soft for sure. No reason to call it 11-, but in no way am I bad-mouthing the climb. Just as you get tired of one sort of move, you start on another. Many stars for length, continuity, rock quality, and variety with good gear.

Rack should include more #3 camalots and less #3 friends. A new-style #4 camalot was adequate and the old heavy clunker was not needed. Furthermore, take an extra 1" and .75" for the top then you need less big gear, as you protect with small stuff on the right side instead.
170' long by our estimation. Mar 19, 2007
C Miller   CA  
The name of this route comes from the Frank Zappa song Montana, which is on the classic Overnite Sensation album (1973).

Sample lyrics -

"Movin' to Montana soon
Gonna be a Dental Floss tycoon (yes I am)
Movin' to Montana soon
Gonna be a mennil-toss flykune"

As noted in the rack description, don't forget the tweezers! Mar 21, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.10
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.10
Not to be missed! Mar 23, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.10c/d
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.10c/d
This climb has some great variety. It goes from hands, thin hands, hands, squeeze, then fists with a finger crack. The crux is probably the last 10ft to the anchors, when you lieback the finger crack. This is a full value 165ft pitch.

Rack:
1 #0.3, 2 #0.4, 3 #0.5, 1-2 #0.75, 3 #1, 6-7 #2, 5 #3, #4fr, #4C4
Save the small stuff and the #3/#4C4's for the top... Nov 15, 2009
Dustin B
Steamboat
Dustin B   Steamboat
Anyone know what the righthand variation is? Nov 28, 2010
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
new chins at the top makes for easy rapt hanks for the upgrade.. Apr 30, 2013
I think the right variation is harder 5.11 Sep 29, 2013
Wei-Ming Lam
Phoenix, AZ
 
Wei-Ming Lam   Phoenix, AZ
 
Careful pulling your rope on this route. May get stuck in the crack. Consider rapping down with the rope coiled through a sling on your harness to avoid snags. Nov 16, 2015
80m rope barely makes it down to the top of the blocks. Fun route! Finger gear at the top can save you some weight instead of protecting in the wide. Numerous 3 Camalots. Apr 27, 2016

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