Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jim Howe
Page Views: 4,283 total · 29/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Sep 18, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Right when you get to the top of the approach trail, this is the offwidth that splits up the prominent leaning pillar. Starts with a hand to wide-hand crack then a rightward leaning offwidth crack to a roof. Pull through the roof and more offwidth climbing leads to the anchor. Really fun route.

(Per Max Schon's 2002 description for Unnamed 5.10/11(?) - "This is the wide short crack when you get to the base of the cliff. I've never done it, but everyone I know who has, told me it's harder then it looks.Looks like you can get your knees in the crack, but apparently they just don't quite fit. Name? Probably 5.10+"


#3 - #4.5 or new #5 Camalots.
Max Schon  
I didn't intentionally apply the bomb rating; didn't even notice it. Do you think the route is 5.10? Nov 14, 2003
Bryan Gall
New Castle, CO
Bryan Gall   New Castle, CO
This climb is a blast!! Initially very easy it goes through a very strenuous offwidth bulge in a wide #4 Camalot size. The last bit is best protected by two #4.5 Camalots (or walking just one #4.5 for a while). I would lean towards the 5.11- rating for this one. By consensus with friends, the hardest moves at the bulge are definitely in the 5.11 range. Dec 2, 2003
SirVato   Boulder
The route is called "Pussy Wuss Crack" The guide has it at 10+.
It's pretty casual to the bulge but, pulling that roof is tough!!
Two of my friends onsighted it I just rode the TR. Mar 28, 2006
Jim Howe
Salt Lake city
Jim Howe   Salt Lake city
Tommie and I put that route up. I Intended to continue to the top but a chopper flake sits up there, and I never went back to it. It is definitely a sandbag. Quinlan and Jim Olsen did the second ascent and asked what I rated it. Under the influence of a superbowl tequila bash I said 10+,..It ain't. Where the name "pussy wuss" came from I have no clue. For me it was "the Incisor". up front and gnashing. Mar 29, 2007
Luke Mehall
Durango, Colorado
Luke Mehall   Durango, Colorado
thanks for the story of the FA, one of the hardest 5.10s @ the Creek for sure. awesome line. Like your original name the best too! Feb 1, 2011
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Approch shoes = 5.10b May 4, 2011
Anus Herder
Colona, CO
Anus Herder   Colona, CO
almost gotta invert that btch,, sick route get on it! Oct 24, 2017