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Routes in Way Rambo
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A Tale of Two Sheep T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blue Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chest Full of Kind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Closed Course T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cockometer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coppertone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Expendables 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Expendables 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Farkle For It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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First Blood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fix Your Tips T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fuzz T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ginzu T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Good Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Grindhouse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Host, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Hostess, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Inhabitants, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Kelley Route #16 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Layaway Plan T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Layoff plan TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Monk, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ninja in the Shadows T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Renegades of Funk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rochambeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Serrator Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Slice and Dice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Way Putter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Way Rambo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wishbone Suspension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Steve Petro and Gordon Douglass |
| Page Views: | 39,818 total · 180/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Dawson on Mar 11, 2005 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public will be asked to avoid activities in areas that the BLM has identified as having high potential or are historically known to have raptor nesting activity. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas for the protection of the nesting sites. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration (SITLA), who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Melissa Wardle or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public will be asked to avoid activities in areas that the BLM has identified as having high potential or are historically known to have raptor nesting activity. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas for the protection of the nesting sites. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration (SITLA), who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Melissa Wardle or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Access Issue: Way Putter/Nutter route Permanently Closed
Details
The route Way Putter/Nutter has been permanently closed.
Please do not climb this route in order to protect cultural resources.
Climbing The Nutter/Way Putter damages sensitive cultural resources. Please stay within the designated trail, and keep dogs on leash in this area.
Access Fund and BLM conducted a site visit and have mutually agreed this route should be closed for cultural resource protection. If you have any questions or concerns please contact the Monticello BLM Field Office: apefferman@blm.gov
Please do not climb this route in order to protect cultural resources.
Climbing The Nutter/Way Putter damages sensitive cultural resources. Please stay within the designated trail, and keep dogs on leash in this area.
Access Fund and BLM conducted a site visit and have mutually agreed this route should be closed for cultural resource protection. If you have any questions or concerns please contact the Monticello BLM Field Office: apefferman@blm.gov
Description
Way Rambo is located near the top of the approach trail to the Rambo Wall. Upon reaching the top of the trail and the routes Rochambeau and the Fuzz (or whatever that long-ass 5.10 hand crack is), head left around the corner and look up. You'll see an incredibly striking hands - thin hands - off fingers splitter with two distinct leftward hand traverses, one at 30 and one at 80 feet approximately. This is the crag's namesake and one of the more fabulous and kick ass cracks around. The basic consensus is 'way bitchin' and 'way fuckingradman' and, my own creation, 'way butter', a play on way nutter. The first half of the pitch is 5.10, and as the crack narrows the grade steepens.
Protection
The guide suggests about ten pieces of pro. 4 in the 2.5 in. range, and 2 or 3 2, 1.5, and 1 inch pieces. which breaks down to 2 #2 camalots, 2 or 3 #1 camalots, and what in my experience was basically #.75 camalots to the top of the pitch. although a slightly smaller piece will fit (i.e. a red metolius, etc. towards the end of the pitch).
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