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Routes in Way Rambo

A Tale of Two Sheep T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blue Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chest Full of Kind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Closed Course T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockometer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
First Blood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fix Your Tips T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fuzz T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ginzu T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Grindhouse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Host, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hostess, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inhabitants, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Layaway Plan T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Layoff plan TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monk, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ninja in the Shadows T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegades of Funk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rochambeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Serrator Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slice and Dice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Way Nutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Rambo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wishbone Suspension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Steve Petro and Gordon Douglass
Page Views: 29,497 total · 180/month
Shared By: Chris Dawson on Mar 11, 2005 with updates from Huli Hutu
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Way Rambo is located near the top of the approach trail to the Rambo Wall. Upon reaching the top of the trail and the routes Rochambeau and the Fuzz (or whatever that long-ass 5.10 hand crack is), head left around the corner and look up. You'll see an incredibly striking hands - thin hands - off fingers splitter with two distinct leftward hand traverses, one at 30 and one at 80 feet approximately. This is the crag's namesake and one of the more fabulous and kick ass cracks around. The basic consensus is 'way bitchin' and 'way fuckingradman' and, my own creation, 'way butter', a play on way nutter. The first half of the pitch is 5.10, and as the crack narrows the grade steepens.

Protection

The guide suggests about ten pieces of pro. 4 in the 2.5 in. range, and 2 or 3 2, 1.5, and 1 inch pieces. which breaks down to 2 #2 camalots, 2 or 3 #1 camalots, and what in my experience was basically #.75 camalots to the top of the pitch. although a slightly smaller piece will fit (i.e. a red metolius, etc. towards the end of the pitch).

Descent

Most 60m ropes barely make it, so do yourself a favor and use a 70m cord.

And if you're rapping, use knots in the end. A death on this route was the result of rapping off the ends...
Ahhhhh... gotta love Indian Creek grade creep. Mar 17, 2005
Does anyone know what time of day this particular route goes into the sun? I'm not sure but it seems to face more south than the other routes here. May 24, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a
I think that the grade is size dependant, as IC always is. Big enough fingers and the crux is not bad, small enough hands and maybe that's OK too, but boy, those would have to be very small hands. The crux was a narrow offset just below the last traverse, a loose 1.5" crack. It spit me off.

The last traverse was bomber enough all the way to the finish that I more or less campused that section to the chains on my second try at the route, even though tired.

Regardless, I thought that this route was hard enough to be 12-, as I fell *following it* although I flashed a few 11+/12- on the same trip. Owch. Nov 1, 2005
d-know
electric lady land
  5.12-
d-know   electric lady land
  5.12-
fun climbin. striking line. Jan 26, 2006
Don't miss this one. May 31, 2006
Hello - The first free ascent of "Way Rambo" was done by Steve Petro and myself in about 1990 or so. About the same time we did the FFA of "Slice and Dice".

Hope this helps - Gordon Douglass Jun 12, 2006
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gear Beta...In camolots....2 yellows, 3 reds, 3 green, one .5 for first horizontal (if you dont want to swing on the fall) Mar 18, 2007
Bryan Gilmore
FLG, AZ
 
Bryan Gilmore   FLG, AZ
 
Quite possibly the easiest 5.12 ever, even easier than the "new" Slot Machine. Jul 4, 2007
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
At some point routes become so good that they reach a status of 'potentially best climb in the world'. Way Rambo is to that end, where someone could easily argue that some other climb is 'better' but it's so subjective at that point. At the very least, this is one of the most classic lines I have ever been on!!!

CL Oct 27, 2008
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Alf says this one is 5.11 FYIW :) Nov 17, 2010
kirkadirka
Boulder
kirkadirka   Boulder
does alf have little girl hands? Apr 10, 2012
Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
Josh Ewing   Bluff, UT
A good example of a classic IC splitter that's getting loved to death. You can't blame people for wanting to get on this striking line, but the blown out pods, scratched-off varnish, and rounded green-camalot jams attest to the fact that we can wear out the rock in just a few short years. If you do get on this route, perhaps forgo the tape and multiple TR burns, Sep 30, 2012
Ryan Z
  5.11+
Ryan Z  
  5.11+
Hahaha ^ Alf does not have little girl hands. Rather big hands at that. Dec 9, 2013
hanshan
Canada Mofuga
hanshan   Canada Mofuga
While this climb would've once been a thing of beauty, in its current damaged condition I'd say the only worse climbs in the creek would be incredible hands and maybe generic crack. Dec 29, 2013
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
get off the namesake rout of the cliff ... an get off the popular walls an go find some crisp 5 star routs... crisp like Wiggins 1, wiggins 2, Six Star crack, Thank God for Pods, Crank Case, an finely the most crisp splitter at 5.12 in the creek Sacred Cow, Way Rambo is a great climb "but" it get's alot of traffic? as is the same case with Incredible hand crack... Dec 29, 2013
Ketchup
Boulder, CO
Ketchup   Boulder, CO
The anchor is getting a little scary. Two bolts spin and the third wiggles in its hole. All three are eroded and two are showing more than 1/4 inch of the expansion sleeve. TR on this anchor is not recommended, nor is clipping a personal anchor to a single point. Building your own anchor can be done with .5ish gear. May 19, 2015
Highlander
Ouray, CO
Highlander   Ouray, CO
Another reason to not top rope this once great climb that has been loved to death. May 19, 2015
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
Like Alf, I thought this was soft for .12-....20 years ago. Went back a month ago and found the "crimp edge" at the top NOT AT ALL what I remembered...ditto on the beat the fuck out ratings
D.F...plz don't send the hordes out to SC...pleeez Jan 1, 2018

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