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Lavender Butte/The Happy Submarine Rock Climbing
Routes in Lavender Butte/The Happy Submarine
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Haggis Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lavender Towers, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 PG13 |
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Seamen's Semen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Undiscovered Country, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Elevation: | 6,126 ft |
| GPS: | 38.098, -109.627 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 3,008 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | chris Kalous on Dec 22, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas
Details
Please be aware of climbing routes that have nesting raptors. This News Release requests climbers' cooperation in protecting eagles, peregrine falcons, and other migratory birds who use the Indian Creek area to raise their young. Between March 1st and August 31st each year, the BLM asks climbers to avoid climbing these walls until they have been cleared by agency biologists: The Wall, Far Side, Second Meat Wall, Disappointment Cliff, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. Two of these walls are on partially or wholly on lands managed by SITLA, who is working cooperatively with BLM to protect raptors. The BLM and SITLA will survey walls and generally in May can release any routes that don't have active nests. The walls with active nests should be avoided until the young have fledged. Eagles and falcons mate for life and return to the same nest sites year after year to raise their young, your cooperation is vital to their survival.
The revised map for Raptor Avoidance:
(The map previously posted was requested by Jason Byrd to be deleted due to errors.)
The news release: blm.gov/press-release/annou….
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
The revised map for Raptor Avoidance:
(The map previously posted was requested by Jason Byrd to be deleted due to errors.)
The news release: blm.gov/press-release/annou….
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
This is the large butte N by NW of the Bridger Jacks, across Lavender Canyon. It forms a similar buttress between Lavender and Davis Canyons. It is a wingate mesa with a cap, similar in scale to Bridger Jack Butte. Dan Gambino and I named it the Happy Submarine because from the south it looks like a sub, complete with tower and rudder (some say it also looks like a Cadillac, a cruise ship, and, from the north, a buffalo). The rudder, actually, is a small separate tower that is rumored to have been climbed. In 2001 (I think that is when I was there?), I did not see any anchors. I don't know if The HS had a name before that, but I believe we made the first ascent of the thing so...? Lavender Butte is supposedly the Navajo butte on the mesa to the west.
In 2001, I saw some anchors on the smaller end near the rudder that did not appear to link to the top. The Quinlans have added a couple one pitch routes on the south side, I believe. The very top had no sign of an ascent, so we sprayed our egos on it by building a cairn and leaving a business card. I then held Dan up over the bow while he screamed "I'm the king of the world". It was a nice moment for us both.
This thing has the potential to have more routes than Bridger Jack Butte as it is much larger. There are definitely new lines to be done!
In 2001, I saw some anchors on the smaller end near the rudder that did not appear to link to the top. The Quinlans have added a couple one pitch routes on the south side, I believe. The very top had no sign of an ascent, so we sprayed our egos on it by building a cairn and leaving a business card. I then held Dan up over the bow while he screamed "I'm the king of the world". It was a nice moment for us both.
This thing has the potential to have more routes than Bridger Jack Butte as it is much larger. There are definitely new lines to be done!
Getting There
Take the Davis Canyon (like going to the Sixshooters) road into the wash that is the beginning of the actual Davis Canyon. You will be driving on the south side of the South Sixshooter. The Happy Submarine will be directly to the south. We approached it from the road at a random place that seemed to be the closest. The hike is about an hour (a little longer than going to the sixshooters). High clearance is necessary. Also, you are able to drive around the bow of it, skirting Dugout land, to access Lavender Canyon, perhaps this would take you closer?
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