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Elevation: 4,500 ft 1,372 m
GPS: 38.04022, -109.59149
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 116,022 total · 488/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 19, 2006 · Updates
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A reasonably good cliff you won't be alone at, with a goodly number of good routes! 5 routes on this cliff face North, and about 10 more face Southeast. The latter getting sunlight from sunrise to nearly sunset in the fall and winter. The Bloom book mentions that some of these routes are dusty for lack of travel, as this cliff is relatively unvisited. This is no longer true and this is now a very popular wall, dust is not really a concern these days. The rock is softer here than in some other areas and yields more dust to rain and wind. Still, some routes are quite good. Of the routes I tried, I found "Go Sparky Go" to be the best for its unique quality of going almost horizontal on a flat vertical wall, "Low Spark" the best for its length (P1: 155', P2:80'), "Sparkling Schnitzel" good all around despite being an OffWidth, and "Sparkling Gefilte Fish" a good warm up. The 12's at Sparks Wall are rumored to be quite good, but I did not get on any of them.

Getting There Suggest change

To get to Sparks Wall, turn off of the main road left, as for Bridger Jack, Pistol Whipped, Way Rambo, 4X4 Wall, Technicolor, etc...

Not your odometer when turning, this will become useful.

Cross the creek after less than a mile & continue back towards The Cottonwoods area, staying left at all possible right turns and passing Technicolor Wall. After you have gone 3.8 to 3.9 miles, the cliff-band on your right will come very close to the road. A hogback of land falls from this cliff to a rib of raised land near the road, but just before you reach this, there is a pulloff with a jeep road cutting off right, back sharply north in reverse to your direction of travel. Exit the road here and park.

The trail is very well built and has been recently rebuilt by the Access Fund, it's but not too strenuous or long, regardless. It should take 20-40 minutes to arrive depending on your rack size and fitness.

44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sparks Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V6 7A
 40
Best in Show (Airwolf)
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 147
Skraps
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 297
Sparkling Zygote
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Unknown 5.10
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 73
Divide and Conquer
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 82
Jump Start
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 74
Slings and Arrows
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 309
Jupiter Crack
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 55
Low Spark
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 24
The Hawk
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 39
Sparkling Spurs (1st Anchors)
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 115
Sparks of the Tempest
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 80
Old Sparky
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 31
Sparking Spurs
Trad
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 30
The LGS (Last Great Splitter)
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Best in Show (Airwolf)
 40
V6 7A Boulder
Skraps
 147
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sparkling Zygote
 297
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Unknown 5.10
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Divide and Conquer
 73
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Jump Start
 82
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Slings and Arrows
 74
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Jupiter Crack
 309
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Low Spark
 55
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
The Hawk
 24
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Sparkling Spurs (1st Anchors)
 39
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Sparks of the Tempest
 115
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Old Sparky
 80
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Sparking Spurs
 31
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
The LGS (Last Great Splitter)
 30
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Sparks Wall »

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