Elevation: 4,500 ft
GPS: 38.04, -109.591 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 65,597 total · 395/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 19, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A reasonably good cliff you can be alone at, with a goodly number of good routes! 5 routes on this cliff face North, and about 10 more face Southeast. The latter getting sunlight from sunrise to nearly sunset in the fall and winter. The Bloom book mentions that some of these routes are dusty for lack of travel, as this cliff is relatively unvisited. In reality, while this may be a contributor, the main cause is that the rock is softer here than in some other areas and yields more dust to rain and wind. Still, some routes are quite good, and as Bloom implies, you are likely to have them all to yourself. Of the routes I tried, I found "Go Sparky Go" to be the best for its unique quality of going almost horizontal on a flat vertical wall, "Low Spark" the best for its length (P1: 155', P2:80'), "Sparkling Schnitzel" good all around despite being an OffWidth, and "Sparkling Gefilte Fish" a good warm up. The 12's at Sparks Wall are rumored to be quite good, but I did not get on any of them.

Getting There

To get to Sparks Wall, turn off of the main road left, as for Bridger Jack, Pistol Whipped, Way Rambo, 4X4 Wall, Technicolor, etc...
Not your odometer when turning, this will become useful.
Cross the creek after less than a mile & continue back towards The Cottonwoods area, staying left at all possible right turns and passing Technicolor Wall. After you have gone 3.8 to 3.9 miles, the cliff-band on your right will come very close to the road. A hogback of land falls from this cliff to a rib of raised land near the road, but just before you reach this, there is a pulloff with a jeep road cutting off right, back sharply north in reverse to your direction of travel. Exit the road here and park.
The trail is very faint and easy to loose, but not too strenuous or long, regardless. It should take 20-40 minutes to arrive depending on your rack size and fitness.
To hike up to the cliff, look for a sweeping roof at the center of the SE face, spanning perhaps 50 feet with 3 end-to-end sections at slightly different elevations from the ground. This will be your point of arrival at the cliff. Note downward from there a break in the rotten red cliff-band, just left of a very large boulder perched at its edge. This is also important. Now look down from there to the chossy, dirty "cone" of soil just right of there.
Start hiking by going in your former direction of travel, South. Get on to the first hogback or "rib" of earth and start making your war up to the right side of the cone of earth previously mentioned. By now you should have picked up a trail. Go right up it's side on some flat terrain that is foot-packed past 1 rock cairn. A the top, walk up and left behind a big boulder and a small tree just past the cairn to follow the trail. You will arrive at more flat-ish switch backs, which will wind up and left towards the perched boulder. Go left of the boulder and up to the base of the cliff, arriving at the base-trail just left of the route "Low Spark." The trail at the base of the cliff is surprisingly easy to travel and flat.

38 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sparks Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V6 7A
 12
Airwolf
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 55
Skraps
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
Sparkling Schloob
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 119
Sparkling Zygote
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 38
Sparkling Gefilte Fish
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 30
Scenic Line
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 33
Jump Start
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 29
Slings and Arrows
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 43
Low Spark
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
The Hawk
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 43
Sparks of the Tempest
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 132
Jupiter Crack
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 132
Go Sparky Go
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 32
Old Sparky
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 24
Sparkling Spurs
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Airwolf
 12
V6 7A Boulder
Skraps
 55
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sparkling Schloob
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Sparkling Zygote
 119
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sparkling Gefilte Fish
 38
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Scenic Line
 30
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Jump Start
 33
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Slings and Arrows
 29
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Low Spark
 43
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
The Hawk
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Sparks of the Tempest
 43
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Jupiter Crack
 132
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Go Sparky Go
 132
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Old Sparky
 32
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Sparkling Spurs
 24
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
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