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Routes in Sparks Wall

All That Remains T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Divide and Conquer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Generic Spark T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Go Sparky Go T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hawk, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ici c`est bienne T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jump Start T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jupiter Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
LGS (Last Great Splitter), The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Low Spark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Old Sparky T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rowdy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scenic Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Skraps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slings and Arrows T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spark It Up Sparky T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spark Plug T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spark Wallberg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sparkling Gefilte Fish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sparkling Prom Date T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sparkling Schloob T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparkling Schnitzel T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sparkling Spurs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sparkling Zygote T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sparks of the Tempest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stiff Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.11- T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
What a Fool Believes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zebras and Moonbeams T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 1,012 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 20, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is a good route if you like off-width. It has a relatively short but well protected OW crux, solid rock, and interesting climbing. The high crux just before the final bulge is mitigated by some sloping mantles and feet on the right side in the right-facing corner. Yet these are bad enough that the route still earns its grade of 5.11- so although it gets partial shade, you are unlikely to get cold while leading it.

Location

Near the far North end of the East/Southeast face of the Sparks Wall there is a broad but detached tower barely separated from the base of the main cliff. On the main face of this, facing the road and perhaps 15 meters from its left edge, there is a vertical crack system that goes from tight hands to wider up top. This is Sparkling Gefilte Fish. To the right of this perhaps 6 meters more there is a striking off-hands to off-width in a right-facing corner, Sparkling Schnitzel.

Protection

Gear from 2.5" to #4 camalot. The top anchors are 2 bolts on a sloping shelf up and left of the final bulge. I just reinforced the old crispy webbing with fresh, but it is lying across an edge and should be checked with every use. They are not visible from the ground. A #3.5 camalot is a good piece to place right before topping out to inspect these anchors.

Photos

Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
I found a #5 to be useful at the wide portion 8' below the chains.

Also found that racking most of the large gear on your right side was helpful. Mar 17, 2013