Zebras and Moonbeams
5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British
Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Jean-Pierre Ouellet, Chris Kalous (equipper). |
Page Views: | 4,902 total · 40/month |
Shared By: | Chris Kalous on Mar 30, 2015 |
Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
After walking past this little ditty for a few years, I finally decided to put an anchor on it last year. The fact that it is so short had deterred me from bothering, but after I looked more closely, I surmised that the route would be difficult from the first move to the last, all thriller-no filler, as it were. I guessed correctly.
After aiding and installing the anchor, I made a lame attempt to TR it before dark, and left for the season. By the time I returned to Sparks, I had my eye on another new line, The LGS, so when my friend Peewee Ouellet came up to belay me on that, I offered up what became Zebras and Moonbeams to him knowing it would be a while before I could do it. Peewee, who was in fine form at the time, sent it in short order and rated it .13-.
Basque climber Joseba Larreategi made the 2nd ascent, myself the 3rd.
A pithy overhanging start leads to sustained, dwindling finger jams up an overhanging plaque of rock. Some very cool kneebar beta was ferreted out by Peewee. Probably essential if you have bigger fingers.
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