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The LGS (Last Great Splitter)
5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.5 from 24
votes
Routes in Sparks Wall
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All That Remains T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Best in Show (Airwolf) V6 7A |
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Danger Noodle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Divide and Conquer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Electric Turtlehead T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire in the Hole (1st Anchors) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flat Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Generic Spark T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Go Sparky Go T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hawk, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Heel Hook Mastery 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V5 6C R |
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Ici c`est bienne T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Indian Creek Cement Company T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Jesus Gave Me Beta T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jump Start T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jupiter Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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LGS (Last Great Splitter), The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Low Spark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Old Sparky T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rowdy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scenic Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Skraps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slings and Arrows T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Spark It Up Sparky T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Spark Plug T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spark Wallberg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sparking Spurs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Sparkle Pony Express T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sparkling Gefilte Fish T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sparkling Prom Date T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sparkling Schloob T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sparkling Schnitzel T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sparkling Spurs (1st Anchors) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sparkling Zygote T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sparks of the Tempest T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Stiff Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown OW T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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What a Fool Believes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Zebras and Moonbeams T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Chris Kalous |
| Page Views: | 3,550 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Kalous on Oct 14, 2014 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The Story: This line is obvious and directly in the middle of all the established routes on the wall near the trail terminus, but had not been climbed presumably because of two obvious death blocks about 40' off the ground: big and scary enough looking not to attempt to lead up to, and around. Last spring (2014) I climbed to the top of the cliff and threw off an 80m rope and rapped down hoping to create a two pitch route to the top. The upper rock was not so good, and the big roof, while climbable, has two GIANT blocks perched in it, so I settled for an anchor 80 or so feet off the ground just below the roof and at the end of the sweetest part of the splitter. I cleaned the big blocks 40' up very easily, gleefully watching them roll down the talus with no harm to anybody. I scrubbed and knocked off a few more crumbly and sketchy bits. Voila, a truly classic climb was revealed.
Thin climbing on finger pods lead to a bouldery flair about 20' off the ground: very sequential and not obvious. Then fun moves in a small crack switch finds a pedestal and no hands rest. A thin lieback hits a slightly overhanging jagged splitter. Finish on a sharp, pure .5 to .75 camalot splitter to handjams at the anchor. Though the start protects with Purple Metolius sized pieces, pods and weird flared jams make finger size not such an issue unless you are cursed with true sausages for dedos. First 30' are the crux, then 5.11+ to the chains.
Thin climbing on finger pods lead to a bouldery flair about 20' off the ground: very sequential and not obvious. Then fun moves in a small crack switch finds a pedestal and no hands rest. A thin lieback hits a slightly overhanging jagged splitter. Finish on a sharp, pure .5 to .75 camalot splitter to handjams at the anchor. Though the start protects with Purple Metolius sized pieces, pods and weird flared jams make finger size not such an issue unless you are cursed with true sausages for dedos. First 30' are the crux, then 5.11+ to the chains.
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