Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Chris Kalous
Page Views: 1,336 total · 24/month
Shared By: chris Kalous on Oct 14, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


The Story: This line is obvious and directly in the middle of all the established routes on the wall near the trail terminus, but had not been climbed presumably because of two obvious death blocks about 40' off the ground: big and scary enough looking not to attempt to lead up to, and around. Last spring (2014) I climbed to the top of the cliff and threw off an 80m rope and rapped down hoping to create a two pitch route to the top. The upper rock was not so good, and the big roof, while climbable, has two GIANT blocks perched in it, so I settled for an anchor 80 or so feet off the ground just below the roof and at the end of the sweetest part of the splitter. I cleaned the big blocks 40' up very easily, gleefully watching them roll down the talus with no harm to anybody. I scrubbed and knocked off a few more crumbly and sketchy bits. Voila, a truly classic climb was revealed.

Thin climbing on finger pods lead to a bouldery flair about 20' off the ground: very sequential and not obvious. Then fun moves in a small crack switch finds a pedestal and no hands rest. A thin lieback hits a slightly overhanging jagged splitter. Finish on a sharp, pure .5 to .75 camalot splitter to handjams at the anchor. Though the start protects with Purple Metolius sized pieces, pods and weird flared jams make finger size not such an issue unless you are cursed with true sausages for dedos. First 30' are the crux, then 5.11+ to the chains.


At the top of trail, go right about 50m, around the buttress with Go Sparky Go. The LGS is 10m meters to the left of Old Sparky. Plaque.


What I used in BD sizes or equivalent: 4 .2 X4s (yellow), 1 #1 C3 (red), 3 .3 X4s (blue), 2 .4 C4s (grey), 4 .5 C4s (purple), 2 .75 C4s (green), 1 #1 C4 (red), 1 #2 C4 (Yellow).


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Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
Nice work Chris, I saw this route this weekend. I was wondering about a 2nd pitch and the large death blocks above. If anyone ever cleans them it will be quite the trundle! Oct 20, 2014
chris Kalous
chris Kalous  
The biggest one you can see from the ground is quite solid, and so big, it doesn't feel too bad climbing on it. But there is a smaller (but big enough) one above it that is scarier. The roof goes, its not even that hard, but the blocks are a deterrent. Much higher, the rock deteriorates in general. But it would all go at around 5.11, I think. Oct 30, 2014