Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,640 total · 25/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 19, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


If you liked Way Rambo, here is another climb for you, or if you wanted a good primer for that, here it is. This is the obvious climb on the outside wall of a large left-facing corner. The crack starts mellow down low on good hands and gets harder for a spot that is wide and has a loose flake back in it which is tempting to grab. (#4 camalot optional here.) From a good jam above the wide spot (#3 friend) the climb starts into a 15 foot crux sequence with thin hands in an offset, and then culminating in cool moves on a nearly horizontal, offset, finger-crack. The last moves I will leave as a surprise.

This is a power route. It would be a classic if it were not for the brief interruption of good rock in the middle with the wide spot and bad flake. If cleaned, it might deserve "classic" status.


Keep an eye to the right as you approach the cliff, looking for a splitter to offset to a right-ward hooking, offset finger-crack to a set of anchors. This crack splits the outside face of a huge left-facing dihedral.


2 of each, .75"-3"


Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
I liked this route, even though it only has about ten feet of real climbing on it. Jan 4, 2008

fun little route with a grand finale. all the advice you need is written on the plaque - go sparky go! Oct 20, 2010
blue ribbon
Indian Creek, UT
blue ribbon   Indian Creek, UT
Short and fun, makes for a good warm up or cool down. Basically 9+ climbing to a height dependent move of 10+ to 11+. The rock quality is fine and the wide pod is no harder than 5.9 so don't be intimidated by the MP spray. Have fun! Nov 25, 2014
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
Fun route
.10+ for my fingers Dec 31, 2017