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Routes in Sparks Wall

Airwolf S V6 7A
All That Remains T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Divide and Conquer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Generic Spark T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Go Sparky Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawk, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Heel Hook Mastery V5 6C R
Ici c`est bienne T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jump Start T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jupiter Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
LGS (Last Great Splitter), The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Low Spark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Old Sparky T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rowdy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scenic Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Skraps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slings and Arrows T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spark It Up Sparky T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spark Plug T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spark Wallberg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sparkle Pony Express T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sparkling Gefilte Fish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sparkling Prom Date T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sparkling Schloob T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparkling Schnitzel T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sparkling Spurs T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sparkling Zygote T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sparks of the Tempest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stiff Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.11- T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
What a Fool Believes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zebras and Moonbeams T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,525 total · 24/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 19, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

If you liked Way Rambo, here is another climb for you, or if you wanted a good primer for that, here it is. This is the obvious climb on the outside wall of a large left-facing corner. The crack starts mellow down low on good hands and gets harder for a spot that is wide and has a loose flake back in it which is tempting to grab. (#4 camalot optional here.) From a good jam above the wide spot (#3 friend) the climb starts into a 15 foot crux sequence with thin hands in an offset, and then culminating in cool moves on a nearly horizontal, offset, finger-crack. The last moves I will leave as a surprise.

This is a power route. It would be a classic if it were not for the brief interruption of good rock in the middle with the wide spot and bad flake. If cleaned, it might deserve "classic" status.

Location

Keep an eye to the right as you approach the cliff, looking for a splitter to offset to a right-ward hooking, offset finger-crack to a set of anchors. This crack splits the outside face of a huge left-facing dihedral.

Protection

2 of each, .75"-3"

Photos

camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
I liked this route, even though it only has about ten feet of real climbing on it. Jan 4, 2008
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
fun little route with a grand finale. all the advice you need is written on the plaque - go sparky go! Oct 20, 2010
blue ribbon
Indian Creek, UT
  5.11a
blue ribbon   Indian Creek, UT
  5.11a
Short and fun, makes for a good warm up or cool down. Basically 9+ climbing to a height dependent move of 10+ to 11+. The rock quality is fine and the wide pod is no harder than 5.9 so don't be intimidated by the MP spray. Have fun! Nov 25, 2014
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
Fun route
.10+ for my fingers Dec 31, 2017

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