Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,235 total · 31/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 19, 2006 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

If you liked Way Rambo, here is another climb for you, or if you wanted a good primer for that, here it is. This is the obvious climb on the outside wall of a large left-facing corner. The crack starts mellow down low on good hands and gets harder for a spot that is wide and has a loose flake back in it which is tempting to grab. (#4 camalot optional here.) From a good jam above the wide spot (#3 friend) the climb starts into a 15 foot crux sequence with thin hands in an offset, and then culminating in cool moves on a nearly horizontal, offset, finger-crack. The last moves I will leave as a surprise.

This is a power route. It would be a classic if it were not for the brief interruption of good rock in the middle with the wide spot and bad flake. If cleaned, it might deserve "classic" status.

Location

Keep an eye to the right as you approach the cliff, looking for a splitter to offset to a right-ward hooking, offset finger-crack to a set of anchors. This crack splits the outside face of a huge left-facing dihedral.

Protection

2 of each, .75"-3"

Photos