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Routes in Sparks Wall
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Airwolf S V6 7A |
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All That Remains T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Divide and Conquer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Generic Spark T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Go Sparky Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hawk, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Heel Hook Mastery V5 6C R |
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Ici c`est bienne T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jump Start T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jupiter Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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LGS (Last Great Splitter), The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Low Spark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Old Sparky T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rowdy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scenic Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Skraps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slings and Arrows T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Spark It Up Sparky T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Spark Plug T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spark Wallberg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sparkling Gefilte Fish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sparkling Prom Date T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sparkling Schloob T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sparkling Schnitzel T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sparkling Spurs T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sparkling Zygote T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sparks of the Tempest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Stiff Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.11- T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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What a Fool Believes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Zebras and Moonbeams T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft |
| FA: | Steve Hong |
| Page Views: | 8,882 total · 112/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Feuerborn on Mar 18, 2012 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
2 bolts protect 5.11 moves through Chinle trad pro is available but is more pscyhological than legit, first few ascent parties did it w/out the bolts but was made safe at the request/approval of SH. then a slowly widening hands crack to the left fork which widens from new #5 camalots to #6 camalots
his van
Flagstaff, AZ
Not even close to the listed 130'. 70m rope was ample and I imagine a 60m would work.
Also the #6 didn't fit super well at the end, you might want to bring a 2nd #5 instead. Nov 30, 2014
Golden, CO
A healthy rack is: 2 x #2 camalots, 2-3 x #3 camalots, 1 x #4 (new) 1 x #4 (old), 2 x #5 (I used new camalots, but old would probably work also), 1 x #6. It was nice to have a 48 inch runner and several slings. I did not find anywhere to place a #1 camalot. DO IT!!! Mar 30, 2015
Vail
And whomever put the bolts in should have their head examined. They dont even come close to protecting the crux moves..... In fact a ground fall would happen if you blow it after the first one and a ledge fall after the second. I really dont think Hong would approve of the shitty placements. May 9, 2015
Carbondale
The first was placed on lead during a ground up ascent to protect the opening moves before the ledge and before it was understood that this climb had already been established.
The second bolt was placed after contact with the FA party had been made and was also placed on lead. It was placed in a location that would make the crux move safe albeit a bit spicy without making the #1 placement above it redundant (I beleive that's what it was, though this memory is a few years old). The fall to the ledge before the next placement wasn't deemed dangerous unless you didn't clip the bolt and chose to place the 00 C3 behind the loose block to the left, in which case sticking the ledge is semi-mandatory.
Only two bolts were placed in order to maintain some of the original character of the climb while also protecting the hardest moves. Yes you could deck before the second bolt (this seems to be the case on a great many bolted climbs), but the climbing is relatively easy.
Have fun and check your knot! May 10, 2015
Ogden, UT
Gear: doubles each of #1 to #6 will be more than adequate. The doubles of larger pieces are good for the second. Bring a few long draws to diminish drag. Oct 31, 2016
Moab
A #6 barley fits; a #5 can be skated until the end. A good way to protect the second is to place the #6 (or another #5) at the end, then zipline the #5 down to the piece you placed at the start of the horizontal. The second can then skate the #5 just like the leader. You can do this after reaching the ledge if your tether is long enough.
A #1 can help protect the spicy move after the second bolt. You could go off belay after doing these moves and pull the rope to help with drag. As for the vertical crack, the less gear you plug, the less drag you have. Run it out according to your comfort. #1-3 w/ alpines otherwise. Oct 15, 2017