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What a Fool Believes
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3 from 5
votes
Routes in Sparks Wall
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All That Remains T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Best in Show (Airwolf) V6 7A |
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Brain Sparks T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Danger Noodle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Divide and Conquer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Electric Turtlehead T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire in the Hole (1st Anchors) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flat Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Generic Spark T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Go Sparky Go T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hawk, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Heel Hook Mastery 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V5 6C R |
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Ici c`est bienne T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Indian Creek Cement Company T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Jesus Gave Me Beta T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jump Start T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jupiter Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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LGS (Last Great Splitter), The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Low Spark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Old Sparky T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rowdy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scenic Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Skraps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slings and Arrows T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Spark It Up Sparky T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Spark Plug T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spark Wallberg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sparking Spurs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Sparkle Pony Express T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sparkling Gefilte Fish T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sparkling Prom Date T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sparkling Schloob T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sparkling Schnitzel T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sparkling Spurs (1st Anchors) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sparkling Zygote T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sparks of the Tempest T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Stiff Line T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown OW T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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What a Fool Believes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Zebras and Moonbeams T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 38.04022, -109.59149 |
| FA: | Chris Kalous and Steph Bergner |
| Page Views: | 1,839 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Kalous on Apr 13, 2014 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This Yacht Rock inspired route is a short but burly tips lieback corner. Difficulty is very finger size dependent, but it's somewhere in the 11+ to 12 range. It is stacks more difficult to lead and than TR, as usual, so don't get too uppity about the grade after your partner puts the rope up and you flash it on the dull end. There is a somewhat unnecessary bolt that I placed to get past some subsequently cleaned choss, and it's a little bit of a reachy clip. Sorry. I left it because empty holes are ugly and it is nice to have for the overhanging finishing moves instead of yet another itty-bitty cam cam.
2 stars because the route is short, but its good fun and nice rock.
Location
A ways left of where the approach hits the cliff, past Skraps, there's a ledge above the trail. Slings and Arrows and Divide and Conquer are up there. Walk to the left end of that ledge, 50 feet past D and C, to a broken down pillar and a large corner. Scramble up the pillar into the corner. Voila. Plaque.
Protection
My rack exactly: 1 Purple C3, 5 Purple Metolius or equivalent, 1 Red C3, 1 .4 C4, 1 Orange Master Cam, QD. Confused? Yeah, me, too. You basically need one teensy cam, 5 or so .4 inch (purple Metolius), and a few bigger pieces to bury in the finger pods so you can feel better about all those tiny cams between you and the ground. Actually, a medium-large nut would protect the weird mantally move at 2/3rds height like a boss.
3 Comments