Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Chris Kalous and Steph Bergner
Page Views: 742 total · 13/month
Shared By: chris Kalous on Apr 13, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This Yacht Rock inspired route is a short but burly tips lieback corner. Difficulty is very finger size dependent, but it's somewhere in the 11+ to 12 range. It is stacks more difficult to lead and than TR, as usual, so don't get too uppity about the grade after your partner puts the rope up and you flash it on the dull end. There is a somewhat unnecessary bolt that I placed to get past some subsequently cleaned choss, and it's a little bit of a reachy clip. Sorry. I left it because empty holes are ugly and it is nice to have for the overhanging finishing moves instead of yet another itty-bitty cam cam.

2 stars because the route is short, but its good fun and nice rock.

Location

A ways left of where the approach hits the cliff, past Skraps, there's a ledge above the trail. Slings and Arrows and Divide and Conquer are up there. Walk to the left end of that ledge, 50 feet past D and C, to a broken down pillar and a large corner. Scramble up the pillar into the corner. Voila. Plaque.

Protection

My rack exactly: 1 Purple C3, 5 Purple Metolius or equivalent, 1 Red C3, 1 .4 C4, 1 Orange Master Cam, QD. Confused? Yeah, me, too. You basically need one teensy cam, 5 or so .4 inch (purple Metolius), and a few bigger pieces to bury in the finger pods so you can feel better about all those tiny cams between you and the ground. Actually, a medium-large nut would protect the weird mantally move at 2/3rds height like a boss.

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