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Routes in Sparks Wall

All That Remains T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Divide and Conquer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Generic Spark T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Go Sparky Go T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hawk, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ici c`est bienne T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jump Start T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jupiter Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
LGS (Last Great Splitter), The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Low Spark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Old Sparky T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rowdy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scenic Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Skraps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slings and Arrows T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spark It Up Sparky T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spark Plug T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spark Wallberg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sparkling Gefilte Fish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sparkling Prom Date T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sparkling Schloob T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparkling Schnitzel T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sparkling Spurs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sparkling Zygote T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sparks of the Tempest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.11- T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
What a Fool Believes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zebras and Moonbeams T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Chris Kalous, Rebecca Rusch
Page Views: 2,196 total, 16/month
Shared By: chris Kalous on Dec 4, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Low angle corner with a bolt. Good, mellow lead.

Location

A couple minutes past Sparks of the Tempest. Around the corner from a broken down pillar that is guarding a good looking corner/roof crack.

Protection

Smaller than hands, bigger than tips. Nothing special.

Photos

chris Kalous  
 
Fulford wrote:Nice little route but not sure why the bolt is there? The only thing I can think of is that the FA-ist started to put the anchor there and then decided to move it higher? You can protect within a few feet below and above the bolt. I'm not a bolt hater but this one is out of character with the route/Creek.,
There's another couple reasons a first ascensionist might put in what now seems like an unnecessary bolt, including that they just felt like it (although I think that one had to do with passing loose rock that was then cleaned.)

The real question is: did you clip it? Mar 31, 2015
doligo  
Never climbed this, but from the photo above it looks like the bolt is by the cam-eating roof? It is also always nice and rare to see a 5.13 climber putting up 5.9 routes with consideration for an at-their-limit 5.9 leader going for an onsight. At the rate this place going, I'm all for bolting the entire IHC and GEneric. Just bootied a stuck #3 from one other popular handcrack the other day, yes I had to use water and yes I felt guilty for making the crack just a wee bit wider. Mar 31, 2015
The last comment was thoughtful and added by someone who most likley has bolted and FAed more than a few lines. Unless you were there on that fateful FA day, then the only meaningful thing one can say is "thank you for the work" Mar 31, 2015
Fulford  
Nice little route but not sure why the bolt is there? The only thing I can think of is that the FA-ist started to put the anchor there and then decided to move it higher? You can protect within a few feet below and above the bolt. I'm not a bolt hater but this one is out of character with the route/Creek. Mar 26, 2015
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
 
I don't think too many will argue with you on that, especially considering what the other 5.9's in the area feel like. Oct 20, 2010
slim

  5.10a
slim    
  5.10a
i've done this one a couple times now, and always find that .5 camalot layback to feel uncomfortable for 5.9. Oct 20, 2010