Type: Sport, Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Chris Schulte
Page Views: 4,697 total · 331/month
Shared By: TylerKC on Feb 23, 2018 with improvements by Conrad Newfield
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Classic gem of the creek featuring a stunning prow feature that gently overhangs towards the top. Fun refrigerator hugging gets you too the top, make sure to bring adequate padding and a cool head (possibly a rope for descending) for this rig. If you don't have a rope, compress down the back side of the boulder. World class Boulder in a world class setting. If you find yourself at the creek with pads, this thing is a must.

Location

The prominent boulder situated on the small mesa-top leading up to the sparks wall. Distinct and recognizable, towers above everything else.

Protection

Pads (More than usual)

Photos

Clay Thomas  
 
It's my understanding that the first ascensionist doesn't want a grade associated with this problem. Would it be possible to leave this ungraded here? Mar 10, 2018
slim    
hmmm, not sure how to answer this one. i think i will leave it up to the person who posted the route. Mar 21, 2018
ben jammin
Moab, UT
ben jammin   Moab, UT
Oh booo hooo.. The FAist's iconic IC climb is only V6. Give me a break. Mar 22, 2018
TylerKC
Fayetteville Arkansas
  V6
TylerKC   Fayetteville Arkansas  
  V6
Clay, I am unaware of that being the intentions of the first ascensionist. If Chris were to reach out and make his intent public knowledge, I would be inclined to leave it blank. However for the time being I plan on leaving it with the current estimated grade. Mar 25, 2018
First off, I didnt make the FA. It was done by Tom Moulin, author of the Southern Nevada Bouldering Guide, apparently in 2007. He and a friend TR’d it, then sent from the ground. Mike Vice and I walked up there one day and I climbed it ground-up, noting it was (sorta) clean(ish). Figuring it was too pretty to be unphotographed, we assumed it was an FA. That’ll happen.
As to grade... after posting some photos of this, I began to notice that the first thing many people would ask is “How hard is it?”. Personally, the experience I had on this thing was amazing, and sort of firmed up my convictions as to why I climb. The line, before I climbed it, was so beautiful. Wide, tall, steep... I wanted to do it, no matter the effort required. I hoped that folks who could see this line might experience a similar thing... It’s a great feeling, that level of inspiratuon or determination or whatever. When people would ask me directly, I’d just assure them they could do it if they wanted to. That’s all you need for a line you want to do... can’t say I’ve ever been upset to find a problem easier than I was prepared for it to be. Did I misunderstand your boo-hoo, ben jammin? If I had to grade it (and apparently one HAS to), I’d call it v5. Or 4/8. Or 7A morpho. Point is: Tom Moulin, climb pretty things because they are, why get hung up on hangups, and please watch where you step out there. The boulders aren’t quite like the cliffs, and as you should know, the ground is fragile.
See you out there. Oct 16, 2018
Aidan Nickel
Victoria, BC
 
Aidan Nickel   Victoria, BC
 
Got to climb this this week! Absolutely stellar climb! Undoubtedly how difficult it will feel depends on your wing span but there’s lots to grab onto up there! Don’t get hung up on anything just get on it! This is one of the most beautiful boulder problems I have ever seen! Nov 4, 2018