Type: Trad
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 12,849 total · 59/month
Shared By: Ben F on Apr 30, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


As you face the cliff, this route is towards the left end. Keep walking left until you see a non-generic crack with a small A-shaped roof almost half way up the line. You won't miss it - it's striking. This crack starts wide, goes to fist-large hands in a flaring slot, hits the small roof and then leads to less than favorable sizes until you reach the anchor ledge. The business above the roof is mainly a steep section with thin hands to rattly fingers until you are just about at the ledge. This climb is nice because it varies in size and it actually has a few nice face hold on it. It's not a bad choice for the beginning 11- Creek leader.


This route has a nice fixed anchor at a small ledge roughly 90 feet off the deck. You can belay from up here if someone is seconding the route. For gear, bring a set of cams from #1 to #5 Friends. Doubles are only needed for 1.75, 2 and possibly the 2.5 and 1.5 Friends (bring triples if you're worried). There are also a couple opportunities for large bomber stoppers.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
I have both lead and followed this route and did not think it necessary to have a wide cam to protect it. 1.5-2.5" cams were the crux pro, as the upper section is thin hands. Fun route. Nov 9, 2001
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
The larger cam can be placed lower on the climb for added comfort. Look at the bottom and see if you want to protect the lower section. If not, then don't bring anything larger than a 3.5 Friend (1 will do). Nov 9, 2001
I brought 3 #4 friends and placed them all, and I am an extemely confident leader. May 17, 2002
Rob Dillon  
I really enjoyed the variety and elegance of movement on this one-- it's a lot more interesting.than yr. typical monotonous I.C. enduro-fest. Apr 6, 2004
This is a great route to climb but lots of the rock is shitty. There is a way to climb it that doesn't involve touching the large block that sounds real nice and solid (chimney to the face hold & span the block.) If you look at the climb you'll notice the slot under the roof is going to get larger when the roof falls out. After the roof/block there is more not solid rock leading to a section of hollow splitter! Great variety though.

I would be solid on this one, there are many other low 11's to take a ride on.

A. Everhart Mar 14, 2005
Tony and Ben are both right (just like an after school special). The big cam isn't needed, but it sure adds to the comfort. I will say that if you do opt for the biggun, put a long runner on it. Feb 28, 2006
Rob Kepley
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
Varied climbing with a thin hands finish. I highly recommend this one. Oct 15, 2006
Tavis Ricksecker  
I used only 1 #3 camalot on this one. I probably used one #2, many (six or more) #1's, several (3?) #.75's, one #.5, and a yellow TCU for the roof, plus at least 3 slings to reduce rope drad. This is really a great route! My favorite at the Creek so far, and definately my proudest onsight. Exposed, techinical, difficult without being overly pumpy. Oh yeah, and I yarded on all the 'loose' blocks and nothing bad happened. :) Nov 26, 2007
Just an FYI since the FA wasn't listed for this write up. Jay Smith did the FA on this classic. Mar 2, 2008
One of my favorite lines at the Creek...varied and 5.fun. Excellent pitch.

A #5 C4 protects the top of the wider section. A couple climbers said pro in this section wasn't needed. It isn't needed. No pro is needed, but if you don't want to take a 20 foot fall, you might wanna place it. Apr 2, 2008
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
Way, way easier than scarface which is also rated 11-.

Walk your 4 up the starting crack. Then a 3, a 2, and a 1 before you bust over the roof. A 2 after the roof, then maybe 2 1s, and 3 .75s. May 26, 2011
Crotch Robbins
Crotch Robbins  
Felt harder than Scarface for my big hands. Great route. Apr 24, 2012
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
If you don't have a big cam for the start, it's pretty easy to protect the finger crack on the right with anything between blue and yellow aliens. No problem to do this if you have your leg all the way in the wide crack, or if you are liebacking. Nov 24, 2012
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
I agree with the above comment that a small cam works in lieu of a big one at the start. I got in a red c3, but can also understand the desire to place a #5 at the start as well. Brought 1 #4 for the pod/flare thing. As the above comments also state, there's quite a bit of funky rock on this throughout the route. There was a particular rock that is in the pod about 3/4ths of the way up the route that I tried to trundle, but was unable to get it out by hand. Apr 9, 2013