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Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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3 Strikes You're Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Air Swedin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Battle of the Bulge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Big Baby, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Black Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bloombagged Again T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Cal and Andy's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cave Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Christmas Tree T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Crack Attack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Digital Readout T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Disco Machine Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dogs in Space T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Down in Albion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Elbow Vices T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hole in the Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jagged Wedge, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Last Battle, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Like a Prayer T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Mayes, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moon Also Rises, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mystery Machine, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Our Piece of Real Estate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pigs In Space T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quarter of a Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Railroad Tracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ruby's Cafe T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Ruins Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Seppuku Flake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Swedin-Ringle T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Think Pink T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed RF hands to tips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Warm-up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Jay Smith |
| Page Views: | 12,283 total · 58/month |
| Shared By: | Ben F on Apr 30, 2001 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
As you face the cliff, this route is towards the left end. Keep walking left until you see a non-generic crack with a small A-shaped roof almost half way up the line. You won't miss it - it's striking. This crack starts wide, goes to fist-large hands in a flaring slot, hits the small roof and then leads to less than favorable sizes until you reach the anchor ledge. The business above the roof is mainly a steep section with thin hands to rattly fingers until you are just about at the ledge. This climb is nice because it varies in size and it actually has a few nice face hold on it. It's not a bad choice for the beginning 11- Creek leader.
Protection
This route has a nice fixed anchor at a small ledge roughly 90 feet off the deck. You can belay from up here if someone is seconding the route. For gear, bring a set of cams from #1 to #5 Friends. Doubles are only needed for 1.75, 2 and possibly the 2.5 and 1.5 Friends (bring triples if you're worried). There are also a couple opportunities for large bomber stoppers.
Around Boulder, CO
Benfield, Kolorado
I would be solid on this one, there are many other low 11's to take a ride on.
A. Everhart Mar 14, 2005
Westminster,CO
A #5 C4 protects the top of the wider section. A couple climbers said pro in this section wasn't needed. It isn't needed. No pro is needed, but if you don't want to take a 20 foot fall, you might wanna place it. Apr 2, 2008
Innsbruck, AT
Walk your 4 up the starting crack. Then a 3, a 2, and a 1 before you bust over the roof. A 2 after the roof, then maybe 2 1s, and 3 .75s. May 26, 2011
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO