Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A remote wall that is seldom visited for its lack of easier quality lines. There are probably a few very difficult lines to be had here but few people venture here.

Getting There

A 45 minute approach

55 Total Climbs

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Location: Cliffs of Insanity Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Cliffs of Insanity

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 24
Princess Buttercup
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 36
Iocane Powder
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 26
R.O.U.S
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 30
Nurse Rachet
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands spl…
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 61
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin…
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
Wiggins I
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 99
M.C.'s Hammer
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 11
Funny Farm
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 8
Lobotomy
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
Wiggins II
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 34
Man In Black
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 20
Six Fingerd Man
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 30
Broken Brain
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 26
Puzzle Factory
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Princess Buttercup
 24
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Iocane Powder
 36
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
R.O.U.S
 26
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Nurse Rachet
 30
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hand…
 38
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/…
 61
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Wiggins I
 27
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
M.C.'s Hammer
 99
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Funny Farm
 11
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Lobotomy
 8
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Wiggins II
 16
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Man In Black
 34
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Six Fingerd Man
 20
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Broken Brain
 30
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Puzzle Factory
 26
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Cliffs of Insanity »

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Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Can anybody give me more specifics on where to park for Cliffs of Insanity and where the approach trail starts. Bloom's guide does not seem to give definitive info. I was trying to scope the approach a couple years back but could not find the trail. I want to avoid slogging/eroding up the talus sans trail if possible. Apr 15, 2007
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
Some friends and I just made a new trail about a week ago on the north side of the cliff. Take the same dirt road as if your going to "The Wall" but stay straight instead of turning left. Follow the road for a half mile or so and take the first right and then the next right into a parking area with a fire ring. The trail is well marked and easy to follow and takes about 30 minutes to get to the base of the wall. May 5, 2009
alf
alf  
To Steve and friends:
thankyou very much for giving us a trail!
That is a lot of work and many folks will appreciate it. Feb 22, 2010
Princess Mia   Vail
Great trail! Thanx!!!

The road to the trail requires 4x4 and high clearance. I wouldn't take an Escape, Forrester, CR-V etc up the road. It is way too steep and rough. Yes the section is pretty short but still. We parked at the obvious flat parking area before the rough spot. Then hoofed it for a mile across the desert. A mtn bike would have been nice. The new trail is at the extreme left side of the cliff.

Now I must admit, after climbing on the right side of the cliff and looking straight down at our vehicle made it pretty difficult to hike all the way back along the cliff to the new trail and then back track a mile across the desert. Instead we used the old climbers trail that headed straight down. I think as an alternative trail to the cliff, especially if you don't have 4x4 or if you want to climb Lobotomy etc is to improve this old climbers trail. May 6, 2012
doligo  
Just a heads up, there was a big rockfall on Halloween night 2012 - friends witnessed it from the Creek Pasture around 5pm. We climbed at the Cliffs the next day and found a rubble with bus-size boulders just right from the Puzzle Factory. That whole stretch of the trail is destroyed - thread lightly. Nov 4, 2012
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
The car doesn't matter. Got back there last weekend in a Subi Legacy. The lowest of low subis'. Its all in the driver. Sep 3, 2013
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
sweet Gaar !!!! I have taken some pretty low cars back to the East end of the Cliffs but you must drive like Steve Mcqueen! My self an some other creek people have been working on the prow trail but it's slow going as it is very old an washed out hope to have it dun an carrind up by rocktober..for easier axes to the climbs on the front end.. cheers DF
Sep 8, 2013
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
As of March 2015 we were not able to get a "standard" clearance rental car (Passat) more than a short distance from the road via either the Meat Walls side or the Wall side. Plan on walking a fair ways if that happens to you. Still looks like a pretty solid approach even if you get your vehicle all the way to the end of either road. Cool wall, though, numerous moderates, a lot of solitude and nearly all day shade. Mar 18, 2015
Lisa S  
38.158829, -109.589916 is the gps coordinate for where we parked. enjoy! Sep 1, 2018