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Cliffs of Insanity Rock Climbing
Routes in Cliffs of Insanity
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Andre The Giant T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Are There Rocks Ahead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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As you wish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Back to the Beginning T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Broken Brain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Brute Squad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Spaniard, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fairy Dust T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Farm Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fezzik T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Fire Swamp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Funny Farm T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Get Used to the Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gilder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hor D'oeuvres T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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I've Seen Worse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Inconceivable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Inigo Montoya T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Iocane Powder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Iron Lady Tower, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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Jumping the Shark T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lightning Sand T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lobotomy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Loony Bin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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M.C.'s Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Man In Black T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mawwage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Nurse Rachet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nutter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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O.C.D. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Offwidth Your Head T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Padded Cell T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pit of Despair T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Prepare To Die T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Prince Humperdinky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Princess Buttercup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Puzzle Factory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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R.O.U.S T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Six Fingerd Man T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Skip to the End T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Str8 Jacket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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To The Pain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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True Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Use Your Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vinciny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wiggins I T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wiggins II T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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cave route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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jew fro an a boner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Elevation: | 5,743 ft |
| GPS: | 38.151, -109.598 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 65,172 total · 407/month |
| Shared By: | Karsten Duncan on Jan 25, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas
Details
Please be aware of climbing routes that have nesting raptors. This News Release requests climbers' cooperation in protecting eagles, peregrine falcons, and other migratory birds who use the Indian Creek area to raise their young. Between March 1st and August 31st each year, the BLM asks climbers to avoid climbing these walls until they have been cleared by agency biologists: The Wall, Far Side, Second Meat Wall, Disappointment Cliff, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. Two of these walls are on partially or wholly on lands managed by SITLA, who is working cooperatively with BLM to protect raptors. The BLM and SITLA will survey walls and generally in May can release any routes that don't have active nests. The walls with active nests should be avoided until the young have fledged. Eagles and falcons mate for life and return to the same nest sites year after year to raise their young, your cooperation is vital to their survival.
The revised map for Raptor Avoidance:
(The map previously posted was requested by Jason Byrd to be deleted due to errors.)
The news release: blm.gov/press-release/annou….
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
The revised map for Raptor Avoidance:
(The map previously posted was requested by Jason Byrd to be deleted due to errors.)
The news release: blm.gov/press-release/annou….
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
A remote wall that is seldom visited for its lack of easier quality lines. There are probably a few very difficult lines to be had here but few people venture here.
Classic Climbing Routes at Cliffs of Insanity
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
9 Comments
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Guidebooks (10)
Spokane, WA
Moab, UT
thankyou very much for giving us a trail!
That is a lot of work and many folks will appreciate it. Feb 22, 2010
Vail
The road to the trail requires 4x4 and high clearance. I wouldn't take an Escape, Forrester, CR-V etc up the road. It is way too steep and rough. Yes the section is pretty short but still. We parked at the obvious flat parking area before the rough spot. Then hoofed it for a mile across the desert. A mtn bike would have been nice. The new trail is at the extreme left side of the cliff.
Now I must admit, after climbing on the right side of the cliff and looking straight down at our vehicle made it pretty difficult to hike all the way back along the cliff to the new trail and then back track a mile across the desert. Instead we used the old climbers trail that headed straight down. I think as an alternative trail to the cliff, especially if you don't have 4x4 or if you want to climb Lobotomy etc is to improve this old climbers trail. May 6, 2012
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
DURANGO
Sep 8, 2013
New Paltz