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Elevation: 5,743 ft
GPS: 38.15145, -109.59834
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 136,276 total · 619/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 25, 2006 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A remote wall that is seldom visited for its lack of easier quality lines. There are probably a few very difficult lines to be had here but few people venture here.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive the dirt road opposite the Superbowl campground. From here there are 2 approaches.

2WD/South Face approach:
Drive 0.5 miles and park at the large pullout a few hundred feet before the road gets steep (not after, like it says in Creek Freak). Backtrack a little to a large cairn and a nice trail leading to a wash. Three-quarters of a mile of mostly flat walking takes you to a steep hike up the talus. About 45 minutes hiking.

4WD/North Face approach:
Continue driving over the steep rocky section that, as of October 2021, requires high clearance with 4WD very helpful. Continue for 1.5 miles of easier driving, making a right at a fork after 1 mile. About 20 minutes hiking from here.

70 Total Climbs

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Location: Cliffs of Insanity Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Cliffs of Insanity

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Unknown (easy hand crack right o…
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 50
R.O.U.S
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 74
Kelley Route 1
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 127
Dread Pirate Roberts
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 8
Barlage / Lawlor
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 58
Wiggins I
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 178
M.C.'s Hammer
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Unknown (fists to off fists)
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 11
Lobotomy
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Storming the Castle
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 32
Wiggins II
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 65
Man In Black
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 23
Funny Farm
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 47
Broken Brain
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 43
Puzzle Factory
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Unknown (easy hand crack ri…
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
R.O.U.S
 50
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Kelley Route 1
 74
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Dread Pirate Roberts
 127
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Barlage / Lawlor
 8
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Wiggins I
 58
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
M.C.'s Hammer
 178
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Unknown (fists to off fists)
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Lobotomy
 11
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Storming the Castle
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Wiggins II
 32
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Man In Black
 65
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Funny Farm
 23
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Broken Brain
 47
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Puzzle Factory
 43
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Cliffs of Insanity »

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